Travel Stories

Stunning Siladen

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Location : Manado, Indonesia
Jasmine Abdullah

Source :Travel Times, New Straits Times,16 February 2010

  • Pretty harlequin sweetlips dancing seductively!

  • Witness the love dance of the vividly coloured mandarin fish

  • A Zanzibar spidercrab scrambling along a whip

  • A gorgeous leaf frog fish

  • A lovely pinkish soft coral crab

There is an air of exclusivity in the wooden villas of Siladen Resort And Spa. But for visitors to the Indonesian island, writes JASMINE ABDULLAH, the main clincher has to be the diving in Bunaken Marine Park.

THE boat ladder lands with a thump on the golden sand and we step down onto Siladen island, the smallest of five islands in the Bunaken Marine Park in Manado, Indonesia.

Siladen Resort And Spa is unimpressive at first glance. But as I walk further in, the resort unfolds into an oasis of comfort and beauty tucked around lush vegetation and the requisite swaying coconut trees.

With only 15 villas, there´s a palpable sense of exclusivity and warmth radiating from the lovely wooden structures and the ever-smiling staff.

My room is a beachfront villa with four-star amenities and a large balcony overlooking a clean coral beach and crystal blue azure waters. The bright blue Balinese-style open-air bathroom is a pleasant surprise although I am a little annoyed at the pathetic water pressure. However, all is forgiven when some juvenile jumping on the bed confirms its comfort.

There´s only one restaurant but surprisingly, its menu is extensive and certainly ambitious for such a small resort. Expect a lovely salad bar featuring yummy appetisers such as broccoli sundried tomato salad and seafood glass salad.

Mealtimes come with a food station featuring cuisine from different countries such as Japanese tempura and Korean bulgogi. Main courses are yummy and vary from a simple pork osso bucco to grilled marlin fish with Manadonese herbs. General manager Svein Moldskred tells me that should the resort host Muslim guests, Siladen would ensure that food served for all guests would be pork-free for that particular duration.

For those whose idea of a great holiday is stuffing their face, prepare to get fat here!

Luckily, I am able to tear myself away to enjoy a traditional Indonesian massage at the spa. The air is thick with the scent of pandan, lavender and cananga essential oils, and I succumb to the masseuse´s talents.

Diving North Sulawesi and Bunaken

No matter how good the food or spa is, the main clincher has to be the diving. At least for me anyway.

My first dive at Tiwoho is a night dive and it´s fantastic. The seabed is crawling with hairy hermit crabs and a sleeping puffer floating upright stares glassy-eyed at me. I try to photograph a stumpy-spined cuttlefish walking on the substrate, while carefully avoiding a nearby stonefish. Lobsters wave their antennae at me, perhaps suspecting me of being an unusually unattractive mollusk.

We end our dive gazing at the neon blue dots and lines on a large scribbled filefish, while large numbers of Durban hinge-beak shrimps play in the crevice of a rock.

Tanjung Pisok reveals a robust ghost pipefish trying to pass itself off as sea grass. I stare at rarely-seen nudibranch and confuse a white sea cucumber probably wondering why I´m trying to photograph a speck on its back (an emperor shrimp).

I see my first ever ornate ghost pipefish at Kalumpang and it is a stunning red with orange yellow patches. The delicate fish floats upside-down near some featherstars, while all of us jostle at the chance to take its photo. A large Zanzibar shrimp on a whip later catches our attention, as well as shy ribbon eels. And on ascending, a banded sea snake gives us a fright when it makes a sudden dash for the surface!

But the highlight of the day is my dive at Engine when a loud clanging from the dive master annoys a huge eagle ray into swimming away gracefully. Later I enjoy the antics of a gold-spec jawfish standing on its tail and showing me its gaping mouth. And to top off a great dive, a giant solitary napoleon wrasse gives us a send-off at our safety stop.

The next day, we see the resident giant turtle called George, crammed into a tight crevice to catch a few winks. He suffers our intrusion for almost 10 minutes before pushing off into the deep blue sea.

My other dives are equally wonderful with great visibility hovering around 20 metres. I see pygmy seahorses, other incredibly large slumbering turtles and colourful nudibranch everywhere.

And for our last dive, we go looking for the spectacularly colourful mandarin fish. It is a shallow dive at about six metres and just before sunset, they finally emerge swimming around, some doing an elaborate love dance by swimming closely side-by-side.

It´s not easy photographing the mandarin fish for, as soon as they are disturbed, they dive back into the broken corals to hide. But patience pays off, and we finally emerge shivering on the boat clutching precious pictures of mating mandarin fish.

With more than 50 gorgeous dive sites, Bunaken makes for wonderful diving, both relaxing and exciting at the same time. Coupled with the comfort of staying in Siladen Resort, this irresistible combination is heaven-sent for leisure divers who enjoy diving but like that little extra bit of luxury too.

How To Get There

It´s a four-hour flight from LCCT in Kuala Lumpur to Manado via AirAsia which flies there three times a week on Tuesdays, Thursdays and Saturdays. Call 03-2171 9222 for further information.

From the airport, it´s a 30-minute drive to the jetty and a further 30-minute boat ride to the island. Check with the resort on airport transfers.

Where To Stay

Up till March 31, 2010, a twin-sharing beach-view villa in Siladen Resort & Spa is US$370 per night, including full board and all government and service taxes.

For reservations, Tel/Fax: +62-431 856820; Email: info@siladen.com

Diving

The cost for 11-20 boat dives is Euro 27 per dive. Equipment rental is available. Snorkelling is as low as Euro 10, depending on location. Sign up for your own private underwater DVD of the Bunaken Marine Park at Euro 40. Diving courses and Discover Scuba Diving programmes are also available.

The Bunaken National Marine Park Entrance fee (RP150,000) is not included in the rates and will be charged separately at Siladen resort.


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