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Wild time at Cherating

Thursday, January 01, 1970 — Thursday, January 01, 1970

NATURAL wonders abound in Cherating, Pahang. Watching a turtle laying eggs is one of them, writes Hanna Hussein.

ITS half past 10 but the crowd of 60 at Monica Bay doesnt seem bothered by the late hour. The atmosphere at Pantai Teluk Mak Nik, as its also known, is charged as though theres a wild beach party happening but there are no bright lights nor loud music.

To me, the swelling number seems somewhat too big for this lesser-known Terengganu beach, about a half hours drive from Cherating in neighbouring Pahang.

NIGHT TO REMEMBER

The night had kicked off with a wonderful dinner at Legend Resort Cherating (see accompanying story).

But supper is taken to a higher level as we make our move to Pantai Teluk Mak Nik in Kemaman.

We are promised a spectacular nature show at Teluk Mak Nik Turtle Conservation Centre, one of the landing sites for turtles to lay eggs.

At the centre, we are both bewildered and curious. All I can see are coconut trees and the crowd. We are told to stick together and to keep quiet. Our guide, Pak Su, briefs us on the dos and donts but looking at the big crowd, I wonder how he is going to manage all of us at once.

As if reading my mind, he says: We have a really unusual big crowd tonight but not to worry as there are six rangers on duty.

The rangers, he explains, control the coastline and record the presence of sea turtles every night.

Pak Su divides us into six groups and again asks us to be patient as we wait for the next move. The groups are then called out, one at a time and led towards the shore.

Thankfully, I dont have to wait too long for my group to be called. I look at my watch. Its already 10.50pm.

Led by a ranger, our party of 10 walk to the shore to witness - what is to me, the chance of a lifetime - a beautiful big green turtle laying eggs.

LABOUR OF LOVE

The mother turtle is already half-way into the nesting process as her dug-out hole is half full with eggs.

The hole is about 5m from the waters edge. She positions her body with the South China Sea on one side and shrubs and trees on the other.

Pak Su tells us that there will be more male hatchlings in this batch of eggs as the mother has chosen a location near the trees.

Eggs laid in the shade will usually have more males while those laid at the open beach will have more females, he says.

As she lays the eggs, her tears fall. Those tears: Is it labour pain or is it her crying for the fate of her children? Or is it because of our intrusion? I can only wonder. Some ignorant, irresponsible adults fail to control their children who go near the poor animal and even touch its head.

But the mother turtle keeps strong and at about 11.20pm, she starts to cover the hole with sand to hide her eggs from predators. Then she slowly makes her way back to the sea.

BACK TO CHERATING

Turtles are not the only natural wonder at Cherating. The beach, located about 30km north of the capital of Kuantan, is also famed for its mangrove river and the mysterious Pulau Ular. It was so named because the locals believe that the island was once guarded by a snake.

For nature lovers, Sungai Cherating has a lot to offer, from various types of mangroves to fish and crabs.

Armed with a life jacket and lots of enthusiasm, I step into a boat for a 10km lazy cruise.

Less than 10 minutes of cruising, a big monitor lizard cuts the placid water surface, swimming to the mangrove-fringed bank. Excited to see more wildlife, we scrutinise each tree and are lucky to spot a gold-ringed cat snake, commonly known as the mangrove snake, snoozing on one of the branches. This beautiful black and yellow snake is venomous.

While this river shines during the day, Sungai Ibuk in Kemaman, about an hours drive from Cherating, dazzles at night.

A sunset cruise takes me on a magical journey to watch the flickering lights of the firefly.

This lightning bug produces a cold light from its lower abdomen by friction of liquid. It is easy to distinguish the gender - the male produces a brighter glow while the female produces dimmer lights. It looks like Christmas with millions of twinkling lights lighting up the mangrove trees along the river.

But what is a beach holiday without hitting the salty water? We head for Pulau Ular, about 20 mins by boat from the resort.

The island is a famous snorkelling spot because the water is shallow and the waves are not strong, which is just right for beginners.

For those in the mood for some exploration, the island has a trail that leads to the top of a rocky hill that commands a magnificent aerial view of Pulau Helang and the surrounding waters.

Back at shore, Cherating beach has lots of watersports like the bandwagon and banana boat. Landlubbers can go on the All Terrain Vehicle in the woods. This is a must-try activity as not only it is electrifying and exciting but it also gives riders a chance to see nature and a fishing village.

Lure of beach and azure waters

WALKING on the beach with powdery sand while waiting for the sunset, I feel like Im on an isolated island, far, far away from the mainland.

While the sound of the crashing waves is soothing, childrens laughter brings me back to Legend Resort Cherating.

Boasting a fine and white sandy beach and two gigantic swimming pools, the resort is ideal for a family retreat.

Families not only enjoy the azure waters of South China Sea, but they can also enjoy a host of activities at the beach.

There is a small booth, conducted by Mizi Watersport, offering thrilling activities such as the bandwagon, banana boat, All Terrain Vehicle jungle track, island trip, fishing trip and snorkelling trip at Pulau Ular.

Every evening at 4, horse rides on the beach are available.

The landscape surrounding the pool is what attracts me most. The tropical plants add character to the beach.

Sitting at the beach bar to enjoy ais kacang topped with ice cream and keropok lekor while watching a beach volleyball match is the best way to spend the day.

HOTEL

Legend resort cherating

LOT 1290, Mukim Sungai Karang, Cherating, 26080, Kuantan, Pahang. Hotline: 1800 88 8866. Website: www.legendresort.com. my

GETTING THERE

It is a three-hours drive from Kuala Lumpur or 40 minutes from Kuantan Airport.

FIRST IMPRESSION

Family-oriented resort with many activities.

RATING

Four-star hotel.

MAIN ATTRACTIONS

Sandy beach and its long list of activities like turtle watching and firefly cruise.

F B OUTLETS

The Coffee House Terrace serves a all-day dining menu of local and continental dishes. Dance to vibrant music as you groove the night away at the Xpose Disco.

FACILITIES

Swimming pool, gymnasium, tennis courts, squash courts, sauna, table tennis, indoor board games, snooker table, video games room, pool table and function halls.

SERVICE

Friendly and outgoing.

ROOMS

248 rooms including deluxe premium room, junior suite and penthouse. Each room comes with private balcony and is equipped with standard facilities.

RATE

The resort is offering an attractive 3D/2N Fun In The Sun package at RM550++ which includes breakfast for four (two adults and two children), free lunch and dinner for children 12 years and below and free snacks for kids when they take part in organised activities.

Turtle facts

THE turtle has existed since 100 million years ago.

It has a life span of between 80 and 100 years.

It travels over 1,600km in the ocean but will head for the same beach where it was hatched, to lay eggs.

It nests at night as its cooler and in darkness, it is less conspicuous to large predators.

A mother turtle lays about 80-100 eggs a night every year but only one or two will survive.

Turtles are on the verge of extinction. They are at great risk from man-made threats like nets, boat propellers, poaching activities as well as natural predators such as sharks.

Turtle eggs are considered a delicacy and their consumption will further cause the number of turtles to decrease.

Besides Pantai Teluk Mak Nik and the popular Rantau Abang in Terengganu, Cherating is Pahangs turtle landing spot.

The Cherating centre implements the Turtle Conservation And Management Programme by establishing turtle sanctuaries to help increase their population.

Under the spell of Wadi Rum

Thursday, January 01, 1970 — Thursday, January 01, 1970

The majestic mountains and desert landscape of Wadi Rum once enchanted T.E. Lawrence. Putri Zanina finds it an unforgettable experience.
The afternoon sun is merciless on this cloudless summer day. The heat sears the skin, the dry and dusty air bungs up the lungs. Yet we are all eager-eyed as we climb into the jeep and the Bedouin driver revs it up. Almost 50 other jeeps - each with four to five passengers on board - are similarly revved up. Its as if a race is about to begin. You can almost taste the excitement, like the sand that swirls with the gush of exhaust fumes.

Then, just when we wonder how long more well have to wait (like how we had waited the past hour to get everyone rallied around), we hear the screech of tyres as the jeeps roared ahead to leave a dusty trail. Our jeep coughs and sputters before it jerks forward to join the convoy headed for one of the worlds most spectacular deserts - Wadi Rum.

It was just two hours before that we left Petra - one of the seven ancient wonders of the world. If this jewel of Jordans historical marvel with its intriguing rock-hewn city can leave you feeling deeply mystified, the stunning Wadi Rum - with its natural orange-red sand and towering rock walls - leaves you speechless.

The walls of rock soar so high and close that at certain stretches along the sandy trail, the sky vanishes from view. Youll feel as if youve been swallowed by the sandstone cliffs. And the bumpy ride on the rickety old jeep will remind you of riders galloping on camels or horses past a thick swirl of dust and gravel, much like a scene from the critically acclaimed Hollywood film, Lawrence Of Arabia. The 1962 Oscar-winning film, starring Peter OToole and Omar Sharif, was shot partly in Wadi Rum, making it even more famous worldwide.

SPELLBINDING SCENERY

The real T.E. Lawrence, British intelligence officer and military strategist, was a hero in his time for his involvement in the British-inspired Arab revolt against the Turks of the Ottoman Empire during World War I (1914-1918). Having spent a significant time in the rugged Wadi Rum, he immortalised his exploits in his book, The Seven Pillars Of Wisdom (published 1927). Lawrence was so enamoured by Wadi Rum that he called it my private resort.

This place, he wrote, is vast, echoing and Godlike, and it stifled laughter and enforced humility. Yes, youll indeed feel so small in this vast sea of sand and rocks. The giant rock formations that rise from the sandy floor will move you the way they have moved so many travellers to this land for centuries. If in his memoir, Lawrence put it as being shamed into pettiness by the innumerable silences of stars, I feel as if I have been cast a spell by the splendour of Wadi Rum that brings me not only into a state of humility but also one of deep contemplation of how great Gods creation is.

Many of the outstanding rock formations can be seen along the route that stretches for about 130km. There are valleys too in the undulating landscape, punctuated in many parts by jabals (mountains). Erosion over some 50 million years ago caused some of the jabals to turn into mounds of soft sandstone. The central valley is dominated by Jabal Rum (1,754m). Jordans highest peak, Jabal Umm Adaami (1,832m) stands in the south near the Saudi border. Wadi Rum became a protected area 14 years ago and came under the Aqaba Special Economic Authority.

PAST LEGACY

Our convoy travels for more than an hour before we stop at a gently sloping floor of the now familiar orange-red sand. Its a relief to get down after a roller-coaster-like ride and walk towards Jabal Khazali, a narrow canyon. Forming a single line, we scale the stone path to see ancient Nabatean writing on the face of the rock. There are also carvings of people and animals.

The early Arab tribe of Nabatean settled in Wadi Rum in 4th Century BC. The Nabateans built temples, one of which can be seen behind the rest house in the small village of Rum. The Nabateans also made numerous inscriptions on rocks in the area, which was inhabited between 800 and 600 BC. Today, the village comprises only a few concrete houses and shops, a school and the headquarters of the Desert Patrol Corps. Some 5,000 people live here, mostly Bedouin, many of whom earn a living from tourism-related activities, including taking tourists to the heart of Wadi Rum. If you crave for more adventurous activities, trek deep into the desert - walk or ride a camel, and climb those towering rocks. If weather permits, paraglide or ride hot air balloons thatll take you to a dizzying height for a truly breathtaking view of the desert.

CLAIMING A SPOT

Its another hours drive to Al Ghuroub to catch the dramatic colours of sunset in Wadi Rum. The day is becoming slightly cool with the changing angle of the sun that now seems to touch the jagged edge of the mountain peak. Still cloudless, the greyish blue sky with a tinge of russet is the perfect backdrop for the glowing ball of orange. Its a spectacular sight that colours the rhythm of rugged desert life. It pays to linger the evening away at this spot in the desert, surrounded by the rolling hills.

Waiting for us is a campfire meal with Arabian music and dance, and the bubbling, aromatic shisha at Jabal Rum Camp, a Bedouin-like tent on the fringe of the desert. It promises a night of fun under the galaxy of stars as we join in the dance and enjoy an all-you-can-eat buffet of barbecued lamb and chicken, pita bread and hummus, and the excellent traditional Bedouin zarb - lamb and chicken slowly cooked for one to two hours in underground sealed fire pits.

But for now, all these can wait, as I watch the setting sun. I have found my own private spot at the vast wind-seared Al Ghuroub. Lying down on the sand, I listen to the wind, its echo humming across the towering canyons that rise from the arc of orange-red sand. Now, I understand why Lawrence called Wadi Rum vast, echoing and Godlike. Yes, I am claiming this very spot as my own piece of the desert where I completely surrender to its immense majesty.

GETTING THERE

Royal Jordanian Airlines flies thrice weekly (Mondays, Wednesdays and Fridays) from Kuala Lumpur International Airport to Amman, the capital of Jordan. Wadi Rum is about a 30km detour from the Desert Highway between Amman and Aqaba. Its about 240km from Amman and 40km from Aqaba. Petra is 84km or about 1 1/2-hours drive from Wadi Rum. A side road from the Desert Highway leads to the Wadi Rum Visitors Centre where you must register before entering Wadi Rum. Entrance fee is JD5 (RM22) per person. Wadi Rum safari tour: From JD55 per person depending on the guide and the length of the trip (three to five hours or overnight). Admission to Wadi Rum is strictly controlled and must be arranged with the approval of the visitors centre.

BEST TIME TO GO

The best months to visit are early spring (March and April) and late autumn (October to November). It does rain in winter (December to February), and snow can sometimes be seen on the mountains. Night-time temperatures can fall to 0 Degree Celsius, so come prepared with winter clothing. May to September is hot with daytime temperatures often soaring to 40 Degree Celsius or higher but can drop to 16 Degree Celsius or lower at night.

Wildlife and plants

Wadi Rum comes alive in spring when the sandy, rocky landscape will be dotted with wild plants and flowers, including poppies, red anemones and the exquisite black iris, which is the national flower of Jordan. Birds, such as Griffon vulture and Bonellis eagle can be spotted all year round. Grey wolf, Blandfords fox, sand cat and ibex also claim their territories in Wadi Rum.

Sites you must see

1. burdah rock bridge: View this from a distance or climb it if you are fit.

2. um Frouth rock bridge: Scramble onto this low rock bridge.

3. sand dunes Area: Sloping dunes are quite tough to climb but fun to slide down.

4. Jabal Khazali: See numerous Nabataean rock carvings of people and animals.

5. nabataean temple: Find it near the Rest House in Rum Village and see Thamudic and Kufic rock art.

6. Anfashieh inscriptions: The mountain near the sand dunes area has ancient drawing of a camel caravan from the Nabatean and Thamudic period.

7. seven Pillars of Wisdom: An impressive rock formation near the visitors centre named after Lawrences book.

8. Lawrences House: Its not certain whether it was Lawrences house but locals tell stories of him staying and/or storing weapons here. The current structure is just a bunch of rubble.

9. Lawrences spring: Its a stagnant puddle 2km southwest of the village of Rum against a stunning view of the desert.

A truly epic ride

Thursday, January 01, 1970 — Thursday, January 01, 1970

BIDDING farewell to participants of BMW Motorrad Days festival, Arman Ahmad heads for the Swiss Alps to enjoy the gorgeous mountain roads.

WE have just spent a few days in Germany, meeting with riders from all over the world at BMW Motorrad Days festival, one of the biggest bike gatherings in Germany.

Now, our group of 22 Malaysian riders are heading for the Swiss Alps en route to Austria.

It feels good to be back in the saddle and out on the open road. My bike is pretty much loaded up. I have two aluminium side panniers and a rear box filled with luggage.

The BMW GS1200 Adventure is in its element - its boxer engine pulling the load up the mountain with ease. One of my friends who is into Japanese sports bikes, says the classic boxer layout feels like agricultural machinery.

Riding on these roads though, its just perfect. I can actually feel the pendulum movement of the pistons working like clockwork as it hauls me around.

Making our way out of the city of Munich, we are finally able to stretch the legs of our bikes. Every rider worth his salt knows that the best roads are usually in the country - away from those dreadful traffic lights and gridlocks.

GORGEOUS AUSTRIA

While Germany has fantastic highways and a beautiful countryside, Austria has gorgeous mountain roads dotted with quaint villages.

We ride until late afternoon and finally arrive at the Gasthof Tschuppbach inn after dusk. It is a good thing that the summer days are long. The sun is still up at 8.30pm.

Entering the 600-year-old inn, we huddle together in the restaurant on the ground floor while a tiny, industrious Austrian woman serves dinner for all 22 of us, single-handedly. We marvel at how she works.

The interior of the inn looks like it has been carved out of a cave. Very charming. Sitting on the balcony of my room, I can see a blanket of stars overhead.

SCENIC SWITZERLAND

The following day, we regroup and move on again. From Austria, we start gaining elevation, riding through the Albula Pass in Switzerland.

The scenery is breathtaking. There are many switchbacks and as we climb higher, the houses in villages below us become mere specks. The crystal clear air grants us a picturesque view of the majestic Alps against a brilliantly blue summer sky.

As we climb up the Albula Pass, the terrain becomes more barren. We overtake cyclists huffing and puffing their way up the mountain. Some of the cyclists are well into their 70s, but can still ride up the steep inclines. The route is a favourite with cyclists, motorcyclists and sports car drivers alike.

We reach Albula Gasthaus in time for lunch. Located at an elevation of 2,315m, the Gasthaus is more than a hundred years old. Inside are pictures of people riding horse-drawn carriages in the 19th Century up the Albula Pass, parked in front of the guesthouse.

Walking outside, the scenery is exactly the same except it is now the 21st Century and there are brightly coloured motorcycles parked outside.

We finally reach Galenstock by dusk. I am one of the first to arrive. As I am far ahead, I wait for the rest. I park my bike on the side of the road and sit on a bench perched precariously on the edge of the cliff.

Down below, the road snakes like an endless serpent through towns and villages. It is beginning to get cold with the increasing altitude and it is quite serene except for the sound of cow bells from a farm nearby.

Far away, I can see the rest of the convoy cornering through the switchbacks - just little specks in the distance. To the north and south, barren rocky mountaintops can be seen. What a sight!

That night, we sleep at Hotel Galenstock. Located high up in the mountains and built in 1890, the hotel is famous because it once appeared in one of the chase scenes in the James Bond film, Goldfinger. Its a beautiful wooden building. The interior smells of pine.

The temperature is about 15 Degree Celsius during the day but by the time we reach the hotel, it dips significantly due to the thin air. Exhausted, I curl up in the blankets and fall into a deep sleep.

WHIZZING TO LUZERN

From the Swiss Alps, we whizz down into Luzern, a metropolitan city with a rich history. Its located on the banks of Lake Lucerne, in the shadow of Mount Pilatus which is part of the Swiss Alps.

One of the citys famous landmarks is the Chapel Bridge, a wooden bridge built in the 14th Century.

There are many good restaurants in the area, including the occasional Turkish kebab joint.

We spend a night in the city, before going up Mount Pilatus the next day by cable car. From high up on Pilatus, we can see for hundreds of miles.

The convoy continues to Strasbourg, France on the same day. We travel through the original French Colmar town which was the inspiration for Colmar Tropicale back home in Bukit Tinggi, Pahang.

We arrive in Strasbourg in the evening, just in time to visit the Cathedral Of Our Lady Of Strasbourg and are awed by the Gothic architecture of the nearly 1,000-year-old site.

The old churches of Europe are truly amazing. The beautiful Gothic cathedral, which is the centrepiece of the city of Strasbourg, was originally built in 1176 and was the worlds tallest for over 200 years between the years 1647 and 1874.

It is 142m tall or roughly the height of a 40-storey modern skyscraper. It is probably one of the grandest pieces of architecture I have ever seen. My lens isnt able to capture the tower in its entirety.

The thing about these old churches is that it is just amazing that such structures exist and were built for belief in ones God.

It takes a huge amount of economic resources to build one and I find it beautiful that people once devoted such great efforts to worship God.

BACK TO GERMANY

Our final destination is Hiedelberg, Germany, a beautiful city of universities and colleges located on the banks of the River Neckar. There is a large student population here. This city has a fair bit of history for me personally because both my father and grandfather studied here. My father went to school here in the 1960s while his father went to college here at the turn of the century.

I visit my fathers old school which faces the river. Then I cross the Old Bridge and climb Konigstuhl hill, riding the old railway until I reach Heidelberg castle, a beautiful medieval structure from the 14th Century.

From the top of the hill, I watch the sun slowly go down over the city. Its a beautiful sight, most romantic, but I feel a little sad as I know the next morning, we will be handing our bikes back to the shipper and bidding each other goodbye.

Still, it has been a truly epic ride.

Common Europe

There are no border stops as you enter Austria from Germany. Austria and Germany are part of the Schengen Area of Europe. The Schengen Area is like a single state for international travel with no internal border stops.

Biking Trip 2012

Azman Baharuddin from Israq Adventure is organising another trip this year, covering 5,155km. It will start in Turkey and end in Germany. Participants will also get to visit BMW Motorrad Days 2012 in Garmisch-Partenkirchen, Germany. Details at www.israqadventure.com or call 03-5569 3941.

Pulsating parade

Thursday, January 01, 1970 — Thursday, January 01, 1970

PEGGY Loh is enthralled by the Chingay festival in Johor Baru with its exciting and colourful procession.

THE chants reverberated almost in unison: Heng ah, huat ah, ong ah! As the devotees chanted these words, which mean lucky, prosperity and auspicious respectively, they seemed to be transported to a different world.

Carrying their clan deities on sedan chairs, they paused every now and then to rock the chairs from side to side. The minute they did this, a sudden uproar erupted as more devotees rushed forward to try and touch the chairs to claim their share of good fortune. Spectators echoing the loud chants also raised lit joss sticks with their hands and prayed.

The heart of Johor Baru came to a virtual standstill then. More than 200,000 devotees and spectators lined the streets last Sunday to catch a glimpse of the Chingay festival, a street procession on the 21st day of the first lunar month in the Chinese calendar.

Temple deities from Johor Ku Miao temple were once again brought out to be paraded in the city in the annual Chingay. Throughout the procession, the noise level on the streets was deafening. Every segment of the community was involved because roads were closed and traffic diverted, as schools, offices and businesses closed earlier so everyone could enjoy the procession that started at twilight!

NATIONAL HERITAGE

It was an event worth waiting for, all the more because the Johor Chingay procession - the result of a 148-year-old tradition - had been declared a national cultural heritage, joining the ranks of mak yong, Malay joget, lion dance and nine other cultural practices in the list of 50 Malaysia National Heritage.

It was an even sweeter moment when that declaration was made by Prime Minister Datuk Seri Najib Tun Razak in front of the thousands who thronged the streets of Johor Baru.

Najib presented the certificate of recognition to Johor Baru Tionghua Association president Lim Ik Kim. Joining in the merriment were the Prime Ministers wife Datin Seri Rosmah Mansor, Johor Menteri Besar Datuk Abdul Ghani Othman, Tourism Minister Datuk Seri Dr Ng Yen Yen, Home Affairs Minister Datuk Seri Hishamuddin Tun Hussein, MCA president Datuk Dr Chua Soi Lek and foreign ambassadors.

STRONG SHOWING

The participating groups started assembling at 5.30pm at Jalan Ulu Ayer Molek, where Xing Gong, a temporary shrine for the temple deities, was located. The parade line spanned a few kilometres from Jalan Ulu Ayer Molek to Jalan Yahya Awal. It wound its way to the VIP grandstand set up in front of Johor Baru City Square.

The sight of Chingay 2012 was spectacular, with 18 colourfully decorated floats - some from Singapore, China, Hong Kong and Japan - and a few international award-winning performers in the stunning 24-Festive drum show, acrobatic high-pole lion dance and dragon dance.

The Johor Baru Teochew Eight Districts Association brought its 94-strong team of Yin Ge (Eng Kor in Teochew dialect) dancers and musicians of the Dance Of Heroes from the Water Margins, an art form that was gazetted as a national heritage in mainland China in 2006. This troupe, made up of 72 male dancers dressed in colourful warrior costumes with faces painted in dramatic expressions and 22 musicians from Shantou, wowed the audience with their energetic and captivating performance that included segments with drama, dance, songs and martial arts.

As this is the lunar year of the Dragon, dragon dancing troupes went all out to impress by creating unique dragons from items as diverse as paper angpau packets, woolen pom-pom balls, woven ribbons, silk roses, plastic bubbles and even balloons. While a group opted to carry their dragon on a train of tricycles, one of the most outstanding dragon dancers must have been the troupe from Hong Yang Sports Association who performed their routine on stilts!

It was a longer procession this year, probably because of the large number of participating dragons, but the sense of unity and camaraderie was strong as the community in Johor Baru turned out in full force to enjoy the close of the Chinese New Year celebrations.

SPECIAL CELEBRATIONS

The annual celebrations in Johor Baru are unique as they do not end with Chap Goh Meh, the 15th day of the first lunar month. The festivities continue for another week and will culminate with the Johor Ku Miaos annual tradition of a five-day religious ceremony. This tradition has been preserved since the 1800s without any interruption, except during the Japanese invasion in 1942. The highlight of this celebration is, of course, the Chingay.

The Johor Baru Tionghua Association, which manages the ancient temple, leads this procession with participation by the five Chinese clans representing the Teochew, Hainanese, Hakka, Cantonese and Hokkien communities. Unlike the Singapore Chingay which has evolved into an extravagantly choreographed street parade with many foreign participants, the Johor Chingay is a religious celebration where the temple deities are taken on an annual tour to bless the city with peace, prosperity and harmony.

Carried by devotees from the five Chinese associations, the deities take to the streets accompanied by traditional lion dancers, dragon dancers, stilt-walkers, puppeteers, pugilistic troops, cultural dancers and brass bands. It will take more than seven hours to complete the city circuit.

ANNUAL RITUALS

The celebrations start two days ahead of the procession with a lighting-up ceremony at Xing Gong. Devotees will walk the streets sounding gongs in a symbolic Street Washing ceremony, a ritual cleansing of the route in preparation for the temple deities annual city tour.

This ceremony somehow triggers rainfall as Nature cooperates to wash the streets with refreshing showers.

In the morning of the 20th day of the first lunar month, devotees will carry the deities out on sedan chairs to Xing Gong. Its always a spectacle to watch the short but colourful procession that morning, escorted by lion and dragon dancers with their clashing cymbals and deafening drums.

The festive mood continues over the next three days as throngs of pilgrims and devotees converge at Xing Gong, where they will also enjoy traditional stage shows that feature classic Chinese operas performed in their own dialects.

The highlight of this celebration is the Chingay on the evening of the 21st day, when the deities are brought out on a tour of the citys main streets. This event is held on such a progressively grand scale that it has also attracted foreign media coverage, including being filmed as documentaries by Chinas Teochew Broadcasting Channel.

In the morning of the 22nd day, the deities leave Xing Gong with similar fanfare of drums and cymbals and return to the temple until their annual tour of the city next year.

HISTORY AND HERITAGE

Do you know that the Johor Ku Miao is believed to be the first Chinese temple in the nation to be named after a State? Its rich history dates back to the 1800s, when Johors ruler, Temenggong Ibrahim, adopted the kangchu system introduced by Sir Stamford Raffles in Singapore. When pepper and gambir cultivation became widespread, Chinese immigrants moved to Johor Baru to develop plantations.

Settlers from the Teochew, Hainanese, Hakka, Cantonese and Hokkien clans came to Johor Baru not only with their culture and farming skills, but also their brand of justice, gangsterism and vice. After a period of anarchy, the clans finally agreed to surrender their secret society activities.

History records that the Ngee Heng kongsi or society leader played a significant role in helping Temenggong Ibrahim settle the unrest in Muar, and in 1873 this kongsi was legalised by Sultan Abu Bakar when he became Temenggong.

This kongsi was also assigned to take charge of Chinese immigrant community affairs. When Johor became part of the Unfederated Malay States under the British colonial authority in 1914, the kangchu system was abolished and the Ngee Heng kongsi was disbanded.

As a benevolent ruler, Sultan Abu Bakar encouraged the Chinese community to live in peace and continue the goodwill relationship started by Temenggong Ibrahim.

A group of Chinese community leaders led by Tan Hiok Nee built the Johor Ku Miao temple in the late 19th Century that would house the five deities worshipped by the Chinese clans under one roof, and it was officiated by Sultan Abu Bakar in 1870.

Dubbed the Temple Of Unity, the Johor Ku Miao significantly bears the State name in honour of the Sultan. It is home to deities Zhao Da Yuan Shuai (Hainanese), Hua Guang Da Di (Cantonese), Gan Tian Da Di (Hakka), Hong Xian Da Di (Hokkien) and Yuan Tian Shang Di (Teochew). With their worship united in one temple, the early Chinese community in Johor Baru prospered as they lived in peace.

To this day, the Johor Ku Miao remains tucked in tranquillity along Jalan Trus even though it is surrounded by urban developments of high-rise buildings, a five-star hotel, shopping malls, government offices and the citys bustling traffic.

Pride of JBs Chinese community

THIS pulsating parade is an annual tourist attraction in Johor Baru and is recognised as the Best Domestic Event in the 2009 Johor Tourism Awards.

A photo exhibition of past processions was held at Xing Gong, with photos offered for sale to raise funds for charity.

The Johor Ku Miao temple is open to visitors daily from 7.30pm to 5.30pm. Its open from 6am to 6pm on religious festive days, and on the first and 15th day of lunar months.

For details on the Chinese community in Johor, visit the Johor Baru Chinese Heritage Museum at 42 Jalan Ibrahim. Tel: 07-224 9633, Fax: 07-224 9635 or email: heritage_museumjb@jb-tionghua.org.my. Opens daily from 9am to 5pm and closed on Mondays. Entrance fees are RM5 for adults and RM2 for students, children and senior citizens. Opening hours are extended to 10pm when Tan Hiok Nee Cultural Street comes alive with music and cultural attractions on Saturday evenings.

A wheelies view of Putrajaya

Thursday, January 01, 1970 — Thursday, January 01, 1970

A cycling tour lets Hanna Hussein discover the beauty of Putrajaya, both natural and man-made.

IT is 4.37pm when we arrive at Dataran Putra, Putrajaya. The place is crowded with locals and tourists looking for nice shots of Putra Mosque. The glossy pink mosque stands majestically at the fringe of Putrajaya Lake.

My friend and I are killing time before our appointment at Putrajaya Lake Cruise jetty, for a cycling tour of the city. Im excited about the tour as its a chance to see our countrys administrative capital from a different angle - the seat of two wheelers! I have not cycled for the past 12 years and this reason alone excites me even more.

Our guide, Hazali Zakaria, meets us. After giving us a cheerful welcome, he lets us pick our bicycles from rows of assorted bicycles. There are many types, including hybrid and tandem ones as well as those for children.

I settle on a hybrid bicycle which, according to Hazali, is a general-purpose vehicle that combines features of a road bike and a mountain bike. It can move easily on a variety of surfaces, including paved and unpaved roads, paths and trails. Its also very easy to handle.

Hazali says the DNature Putrajaya cycling package, which we have chosen, is a three-hour trip cycling along paths surrounded by greenery, birdwatching and cruising on Putrajaya Lake.

As he speaks, I can feel the wind blowing softly from across the shimmering lake. Strapping on a safety helmet, I am all set and raring to go.

THE ADVENTURE BEGINS We begin paddling along the lake side, going towards upper Sungai Bisa. The lake stretches across the different precincts, from Sungai Chuau and Sungai Bisa basin down to the main dam at the southernmost part of the city, says Hazali.

The vast glassy lake casts a reflection of the sun, and the resulting image takes my breath away.

The lake is the centrepiece of Putrajaya - a place that has both natural and manmade beauty. Heres where you can find architectural marvels such as stately buildings and bridges. These complement the lakes, parks, wetlands and pockets of greenery everywhere.

The beauty of Nature continues to catch my eye as I cycle along paths that take me into the depths of Putrajaya. I have not seen the city in this light, and cycling amidst its greenery takes me into a cool haven that I never imagined before.

MOVING ON Soon we are whizzing past one of Putrajayas landmarks, Seri Perdana - the Prime Ministers official residence.

I feel like a dwarf looking up the tree-covered hill where the huge, white complex with arched window frames and a giant greenish dome, stands regally.

Hazali says the complex, built 15 years ago, combines Islamic, Malay and European architectural elements.

We also come across many buildings that house government offices. Whats apparent is that these buildings are set in landscaped gardens, definitely a setting that supports the concept upon which Putrajaya was built - that of a garden city.

CYCLING IN THE RAIN We continue to paddle with the wind blowing in our face. After 20 minutes, the wind become stronger, the sky darker. The sheer joy of cycling and taking in fresh air is so exhilarating that none in our group pays any attention to the sound of thunder from afar. Nothing, it seems, can dampen our enthusiasm.

We carry on cycling towards the wetlands in Upper Bisa, an excellent spot for birdwatching. But then it begins drizzling.

The thought of a soggy bottom should be enough to get anyone off the bike, but instead, I feel livelier at the prospect of an exciting, wet adventure. The rest must have felt the same for we continue to work our pedals.

But after 15 minutes, we surrender. The rain is pouring mercilessly, pelting our bodies and our machines. Hazali leads us to a shelter along the route where we alight and wait.

He tells us that we have only cycled for 11/2km. Its 3km more to the birdwatching spot, he announces as he watches our dejected faces, which must have looked as gloomy as the sky.

But alls not lost. Although we have not reached the designated spot for watching the birds, the big sturdy shelter that we are now resting under, is also a strategic place that overlooks three islands in the wetlands that are natural habitats for waterfowls.

Through the blanket of rain, we catch sight of the birds - hundreds of them - flying away, as if trying to find shelter from the rain.

Despite its location in the heart of the city, surrounded by government office buildings and commercial buildings such as the Alamanda shopping centre as well as the residential neighbourhood of Precinct 16, this area has become one of the most important waterfowl breeding grounds in the country, Hazali tells us.

Six species of waterfowl that breed here have been identified. They are Grey Heron, Purple Heron, Cattle Egret, Little Egret, Black-crowned Night-Heron and Painted Stork. These are believed to nest on the islands during the breeding season between June and December. Some also breed at the Upper Bisa area all year round. The area supports the ecosystem with an environment that protects the birds from predators.

We stay rooted and watch the birds in awe, not realising that an hour has passed. The rain stops and Hazali says its best to turn back since it is getting dark.

Though somewhat disappointed that we havent completed our cycling route, the final stop near the bird haven leaves us with a beautiful memory that will be hard to forget.

OUR VERDICT Its a thumbs up! The cycling tour certainly beats going to the shopping mall. Besides, its healthier!

Tips * Bring binoculars for a clearer view of birds and other animals, including otters in the wetland area.

* If you have not cycled for ages, take it slowly and build your momentum as you go along. As you huff and puff, dont forget to have fun.

Cycling packages LAUNCHED by Tourism Malaysia on Dec 17 last year, Discover Putrajaya Cycling Packages are a fun way to discover Putrajaya, 25km south of Kuala Lumpur. It is a garden city in which 38 per cent of its area is reserved for green spaces that enhance its landscape.

Cycling packages cost RM80 to RM450 per person (minimum two persons), including food and beverage as well as tour guide, bicycle and helmet rental.

Eight choices ranging from mild to wild outings, are available:

1. Especially for garden lovers is Xplore DGarden Putrajaya which includes cycling in Taman Botani.

2. Damazing Putrajaya is a two-day package, including a cycling tour and one-night stay at a five-star hotel in the city.

3. Dextreme Putrajaya is a half-day package at Taman Cabaran (Extreme Park) for those who enjoy extreme rides.

4. Dnature Putrajaya offers cycling amidst greenery and birdwatching at Wetland Park.

5. Dsantai Putrajaya is a relaxing tour of Putrajaya parks.

6. Dnight offers cycling fun at night to witness the architectural wonders of the city.

7. Putrajaya Night Cycling is a four-hour guided tour to see the bright lights of the garden city.

8. 2D/1N Putrajaya Night Cycling offers four hours of guided tour and a nights stay at a four-star hotel in the city.

All packages include Putrajaya Lake boat cruise.

Details at www.facebook.com/PUTRAJAYABIKERIDE or contact these travel agents:

Inter-orient Travel and Tours Sdn Bhd. Tel: 03-4260 1249

Website: www.iott.com.my. 3T Travel and Tours Sdn Bhd. Tel: 03-2021 3143/017-339 3143. Email: reservation@3travel.com.my FT day celebration THE Federal Territories of Putrajaya, Kuala Lumpur and Labuan celebrated FT day yesterday. However, the fun continues throughout the month.

Specially for those born in Putrajaya, Putrajaya Lake Cruise is offering 30 per cent discount for its cruises and free coupons to visit designated parks in the city. Present your MyKad to enjoy the offer.

There will be free Nadi Putra buses guided weekend tours to attractions in Putrajaya until the end of February. The buses depart from Putrajaya�s i-Centre near Dataran Putra in Precint 1.

Full of colours, sights and flavours

Thursday, January 01, 1970 — Thursday, January 01, 1970

Explore Penangs colonial charms and join in the festive Deepavali mood in Brickfields Little India. SUZANNA PILLAY writes

AS far as places of interest go, two places which are a must visit for travellers are Penang and Brickfields, Kuala Lumpur.

Interestingly, both are transportation hubs with good food, interesting architecture and reminders of the countrys colonial past.
They can also be easily explored on foot, thanks to walking maps which are easy to follow and are available free of charge from local tourist centres.
Famous for its good food and hospitality, Penangs rich historical heritage is a big part of its charm. Amazingly, it has retained several magnificent buildings, structures and monuments which are best accessed on foot.
One of the oldest Indian enclaves in the country, Brickfields was not only the centre for the manufacture of bricks in its illustrious past, it also served as a railway depot when Malaya was under British rule.
Today, the depot has been transformed into KL Sentral, a thriving railway and transportation hub, while Brickfields itself has undergone a makeover, with new hotels springing up in the area.
One area that received a major sprucing up recently was Little India. The buildings were repainted and celebratory arches erected along its street. A welcome sight is the new brick-paved Jalan Tun Sambanthan, a nod to the areas historical past as the centre of brick-making.

Little India Walk
Deepavali is in the air in Little India, Brickfields, which spans from Jalan Travers to Jalan Tun Sambanthan. Take a walk along Jalan Tun Sambathan and you will be greeted by a host of makeshift marquees sheltering a variety of goods and edibles that are part of Indian culture and custom. From clothing and accessories to footwear and food, they are just too alluring for locals and tourists to ignore.
At the start of the street (the junction in front of Sri Kota Supermarket), a colourful elephant fountain makes an interesting visual announcement of the coming festival. Shoppers looking for bargains mill around the stalls which sell everything from home decorations and popular snacks such as muruku and biscuits, to colourful garlands and 3-D paper cut-outs.
Clothing and accessories are other distractions that attract shoppers. For women, the area is a fashion gold mine with bargains on Indian inspired fashion and accessories. Although fashion choices for men are more limited, there are some footwear stalls and shirt stalls.
For tourists, it is a wonderful opportunity to get immersed in Indian culture firsthand and to learn more about Deepavali, the Festival Of Lights, when they mingle with the shoppers and vendors who will only be too happy to explain the significance of the occasion. Theres no better time than the present to experience the colours, sights and flavours that make Indian culture so exotic and interesting.

Historical Penang Walk
Picturesque Penang is a dream destination for history buffs because of its buildings and structures which date back to the colonial period.
This is particularly true of Georgetown which has retained many of its colonial structures and street names, deservedly earning itself Unesco World Heritage status.
Light Street, named after Captain Francis Light who founded Penang in 1786, has plenty of colonial flavour. The street is one of the four original streets of the Georgetown of yesteryear, the other three being Beach Street, Pitt Street and Chulia Street.
Many of the buildings and structures along this route can be linked to the life and times of Light and are a quick history lesson on Penang in the days when it was known as Prince of Wales Island
Light Street is easy to explore on foot because it is a straight road lined with historical structures. For instance, if you walk towards town from Swettenham Pier, you will come across the Victoria Memorial Clock Tower and, a few metres away is Fort Cornwallis, just before you reach the Esplanade.
As you progress along the route, other buildings of interest you will come across include the State Assembly Building, and the Town Hall along Jalan Padang Kota Lama, then the historic E O Hotel on Farquhar Street, and Cathedral of The Assumption, the first Catholic church.

Susuri Sungai Khong

Thursday, January 01, 1970 — Thursday, January 01, 1970

DARI Mae Sai di Thailand menyeberang sungai ke Donsao di Laos, beredar pula ke Tachileik di Myanmar.

Kembara wartawan Berita Minggu, MOHD AZRONE SARABATIN ke lokasi pedalaman di kawasan Segi Tiga Emas meliputi tiga negara ini penuh dengan cabaran dan kenangan.

KETINGGALAN 40 tahun. Itu kesimpulan penulis sebaik tiba di Donsao, sebuah pekan di Laos dalam kembara ke kawasan Segi Tiga Emas meliputi Thailand, Myanmar dan Laos. Tiada bangunan konkrit di sini, hanya deretan kedai diperbuat daripada buluh dan beratap rumbia, tak ubah seperti pekan Tuaran di Sabah, empat dekad lalu.

Kedai berkenaan menjual pelbagai jenis produk seperti pakaian, rantai kunci, beg pakaian, pelekat magnet peti sejuk, tas tangan serta makanan dan minuman yang kebanyakannya dibawa masuk dari Thailand.

Jangan terkejut melihat bangkai ular tedung selar gergasi dalam bekas kaca berair menunggu dijadikan hidangan buat pengunjung. Air dalam bekas itu turut dijual, kononnya boleh menyembuhkan pelbagai penyakit termasuk lemah tenaga batin.

Penulis bersama rakan menaiki bot pelancong dari Mae Sai ke Donsao menyeberangi Sungai Khong, tanpa perlu melalui pos pemeriksaan imigresen. Untuk makluman, sungai adalah nadi pengangkutan Segi Tiga Emas.

Kami turut menelusuri Sungai Khong untuk melihat pemandangan sekitar kawasan Segi Tiga Emas termasuk perumahan daif di tebing sungai, tugu serta pusat perjudian.

Pengembaraan seterusnya dari Mae Sai ke Tachileik di Myanmar menggunakan van. Perjalanan hanya 30 minit, tetapi pemeriksaan imigresennya ketat hingga penulis nyaris tidak dapat masuk kerana borang khas ketibaan di Thailand dari Malaysia ditampal dalam pasport pula tertanggal. Cari punya cari, nasib baik dokumen itu ada dalam van yang dinaiki.

Lega kerana dibenarkan memasuki negara junta tentera itu. Di Tachileik, kebanyakan barangan yang diniagakan juga dari Thailand dan urus niaga dalam mata wang baht dibenarkan sama seperti di Donsao. Orang Islam seperti Melayu Champa dan Thailand turut berniaga di pekan ini.

Seronok melihat motosikal yang dipasang treler dijadikan pengangkutan utama termasuk mengangkut barang dari Thailand untuk diniagakan di Myanmar, jelas menggambarkan tahap sosioekonomi penduduk di sini masih rendah.

Sebelum memasuki Donsao, konvoi kami yang menggunakan van bertolak dari Universiti Mae Fah Luang (MFU), Chiang Rai ke Mae Sai yang mengambil masa dua jam. Di Mae Sai, kami melawat sekitar pekan yang kaya dengan pelbagai tinggalan sejarah seperti tokong purba, arca gajah dan berhala Buddha berwarna kuning keemasan.

Di sini juga ada Muzium Candu mempamerkan pelbagai khazanah mengenai bahan itu namun pengunjung tidak dibenar merakamkan gambar. Kerajaan Thailand serius memerangi dadah termasuk memusnahkan penanaman ganja di Mae Sai, mengambil iktibar Perang Candu Kedua pada 1856-1858 yang memberi pengajaran mengenai bahaya candu.

Chiang Mai mempunyai pelbagai daya tarikan pelancong seperti Menara Jam Chiang Mai berwarna kuning keemasan yang kemudian bertukar kepada pelbagai warna setiap jam 9 malam antaranya hijau, ungu, merah dan putih kristal, selain ada bazar malam. Pikap atau lori kecil antara pengangkutan penting di sini, sama seperti Kota Belud di Sabah.

Di Chiang Rai pula, ada Masjid Darun Aman untuk memudahkan umat Islam di utara Thailand beribadah dengan kebanyakan penganut Islam di situ dari etnik Chin Haw yang mirip puak Hui di China.

Begitulah catatan ringkas kembara penulis di Segi Tiga Emas. Terasa bagai dibawa kembali ke zaman retro era 70-an ketika berada di Donsao sebelum melangkah ke dalam `muzium hidup di Mae Sai yang penuh dengan tinggalan sejarah, manakala Tachileik pula umpama pekan lama Goshen di Kota Marudu.

INFO

Segi Tiga Emas

* Disaliri Sungai Khong yang turut mengalir ke China, Vietnam

* Sungai Ruak memisahkan Thailand dan Myanmar

* Pernah menjadi kawasan penanaman ganja, penyeludupan dadah dan candu

* Pusat perjudian hanya di Donsao dan Tachileik di tebing Sungai Khong

* Mae Sai pekan paling maju

City with a poetic soul

Thursday, January 01, 1970 — Thursday, January 01, 1970

THE Chinese city of Hangzhou, with its rich history and picturesque scenery, fascinates CHAN WAI KONG.

WHAT happens if a poet, rather than a bureaucrat or politician, becomes the governor of a city? In the case of Hangzhou in southeast China, it has become the most magnificent city in the world, as according to Italian traveller Marco Polo 700 years ago.

As history has it, the poet governor, known as Su Dongpo (1086-1094), transformed Hangzhou (about five hours flight from Malaysia) into a city of superbly designed gardens, stone bridges and lakes.

Visitors to Hangzhous famed West Lake are greeted by a stone statue of Governor Su, a statesman during the Song Dynasty, whos also an adept artist and calligrapher.

Heavenly embrace

Hangzhou, which basked in splendour some 2,000 years ago, remains as charming and elegant as today. There is a quaintness about Hangzhou that makes it different from other crowded, polluted Chinese cities.

In China, there is a saying: Shang you tian tang, xia you su hang which means up there is heaven, down here is Suzhou (a city in eastern China) and Hangzhou.

I instantly understand the meaning of the saying when taking a boat cruise on West Lake and marvelling at its picturesque scenery. Embraced by three mountains, the 60 sq km West Lake has top 10 spots with poetic descriptions about their scenes.

They are: Spring Dawn At Su Causeway, Breeze-ruffled Lotus At Quyuan Garden, Autumn Moon Over The Calm Lake, Lingering Snow On The Broken Bridge, Viewing Fish At Flower Pond, Orioles Singing In The Willows, Three Pools Mirroring The Moon, Twin Peaks Piercing The Cloud, Evening Bell Ringing At Nanping Hill and Leifeng Pagoda In Evening Glow.

It is a good time as any to let your poetic soul take a tour of the 10 spots.

While taking a stroll at the lake, I take on a musing mood and come up with a verse or two such as Going to Hangzhou without cruising the West Lake is like going to Beijing without climbing the Great Wall.

Charming tale

Fittingly, Hangzhou also has a great love story to tell - that of Lady White Snake Bai Suzhen who married scholar Xu Xian. Later, Bai was captured by a monk and imprisoned in a deep well at the Leifeng Pagoda (near West Lake).

Charmed by the story, I visit Leifeng Pagoda. Its a place where mythology and technology meet, as it is the first pagoda I have ever visited which has escalators. How about escalators for tourists at Batu Caves?

West Lake is like a beautiful woman that wears different clothes for different seasons. It takes on a different look for each of the four seasons as lotus, willows and plum flowers take turns to dress the realm in spring, summer, autumn and winter.

Food for body and soul

For spiritual seekers, Hangzhou has ancient pagodas, temples, cultural places and scenic spots to keep them occupied.

For Muslims, there is Phoenix Mosque, one of the four ancient mosques built in southeast China during the Tang Dynasty, and was rebuilt in 1281 by a Persian named A-La-Ding.

The Christians have Santa Maria, the biggest cathedral in Hangzhou which was built in 1661 by an Italian clergy, Martino Martini.

On the commercial front, Hangzhou is a thriving city dotted with hotels, restaurants and shopping centres. With more than 9,700 restaurants, it is known as the City Of Gourmet Food.

The better choice?

The citizens of Hangzhou, proud of its rich culture, generally feel that they have better living conditions than the inhabitants of Shanghai.

Evidently, there is an on-going rivalry of sorts between the folk of Hangzhou and Shanghai, only 45 minutes away by bullet train and three hours by bus.

Hangzhou citizens like to say that Shanghai (15 million population) is a city of huge shopping complexes whereas Hangzhou (six million population) is a garden city with clean streets.

Which is better... live in a shopping centre or in a garden? asks David, a tour guide from Hangzhou, without expecting a reply.

Shanghai people are busy making money so they live a stressful life. Hangzhou people are more relaxed and friendlier, he adds.

From my experience and from speaking with Malaysians who have been to Shanghai, I agree. Hangzhou folks are indeed more accommodating than their Shanghai counterparts. Marco Polo, Im sure, felt the same way too.

Tujuh keajaiban dunia di Shenzen

Thursday, January 01, 1970 — Thursday, January 01, 1970

Taman diberi nama Splendid of China itu menempatkan replika terkenal di seluruh dunia sebagai tarikan kepada pelancong

KUNJUNGAN ke Shenzen, sebuah daerah menarik di selatan China, antara pengalaman yang tidak lekang di ingatan mereka yang pernah berkunjung ke daerah itu.

Paling seronok apabila melihat anak teruja ketika melawat sebuah taman diberi nama Splendid of China yang juga dikenali sebagai jendela dunia atau Windows of the World.

Pada mulanya, justeru sebelum berangkat ke Hong Kong dan Shenzen, hati risaukan anak bongsu kami, Muhammad Amirul Hariz yang baru berusia setahun lebih. Bahkan, ia juga kali pertama penulis dan suami membawanya ke luar negara.

Memandangkan penerbangan mengambil masa empat jam tanpa henti dan suhu di sana dijangka di bawah 20 darjah Celsius mungkin boleh menyebabkan dia meragam kerana tidak selesa atau demam sepanjang percutian.

Bagaimanapun, sangkaan kami meleset kerana dia langsung tidak meragam atau menunjukkan sebarang tanda tidak sihat sepanjang di sana.

Melihat kelincahan dan keriangannya sepanjang melancong itu, penulis merasakan percutian itu sangat bermakna, ditambah dengan perjalanan disusun rapi oleh agensi pelancongan iaitu Saidina Travel amp; Services Sdn Bhd (saidinatravel.2u.com) sangat berbaloi untuk percutian keluarga.

Walaupun percutian ini empat hari saja, kami tujuh sekeluarga bersama beberapa keluarga lain sungguh seronok kerana dibawa melawat banyak tempat menarik di Shenzen.

Untuk penukaran mata wang, walaupun Shenzen dan Hong Kong di bawah pemerintahan Republik China, mata wang digunakan berbeza. Di Hong Kong, mereka menggunakan Hong Kong Dollar, yang mana RM1 bernilai lebih dua Hong Kong Dollar ketika itu. Manakala di Shenzen, mereka menggunakan mata wang Yuan iaitu dua Yuan bernilai lebih kurang RM1.

Hari pertama lawatan, penulis dan rombongan dibawa ke Shenzen dan menikmati makan malam serta tengah hari di restoran halal yang menyediakan masakan Muslim China yang menyelerakan. Selain itu, disajikan persembahan tarian dan nyanyian daripada penyanyi China berpakaian ala Timur Tengah dengan iringan muzik.

Sesuatu yang dipelajari, sesiapa yang ingin berkunjung ke lokasi itu dinasihatkan membawa sedikit makanan dari Malaysia kerana sarapan pagi di hotel-hotel tidak menyediakan makanan Muslim.

Antara tempat menarik di Shenzen yang tidak dapat dilupakan adalah lawatan ke sebuah taman diberi nama Splendid of China atau dikenali sebagai �Windows of the World�.

Ini kerana taman ini menyediakan replika tempat atau bangunan terkenal seluruh dunia, bahkan tersenarai antara tujuh keajaiban dunia diwujudkan di situ seperti Piramid, Angkor Wat, masjid serta gereja ternama seperti London Bridge, Eiffel Tower, Air Terjun Niagara dan Gunung Fuji.

Detik hati terus terfikir apabila betapa rakyat di negara berkenaan tidak perlu berbelanja besar ke negara Eropah atau Timur Tengah kerana segala-galanya ada di negara sendiri.

Leka bergambar di depan Piramid yang terkenal di Mesir dengan unta yang jinak ditunggangi Arab Badwi segera mengingatkan kita akan akar umbi sejarah hidup di Tanah Arab dulu kala.

Begitu juga dengan replika Eiffel Tower seolah-olah bangunan sebenar yang berdiri megah di Perancis, membuatkan sesiapa saja yang pernah mengunjungi pusat rekreasi itu merasakan seolah-olah berada di kota Paris. Banyak lagi pemandangan menakjubkan apabila mengunjungi tempat berkenaan, bak kata orang bagaikan anda sudah menjelajah seluruh tempat menarik di dunia.

Kami turut dibawa melawat ke taman tradisional Cina atau Cultural Village, di mana ada perkampungan mini setiap suku kaum atau etnik yang tinggal di China dengan budaya serta cara hidup berbeza antara satu sama lain, baik daripada segi tempat tinggal, pakaian mahupun adat resam.

Di sini, anda dihidangkan dengan persembahan kebudayaan suku kaum Cina yang popular termasuk pertunjukan akrobatik dan opera oleh penari yang cantik dengan pakaian berwarna-warni.

Namun lebih menarik lagi apabila ke pusat beli-belah barangan jed yang tulen, sudah tentu ia antara tarikan penting, terutama kepada golongan Hawa untuk mengenali jauhari jed itu dengan lebih dekat. Bahkan, anda turut diberi pengetahuan untuk membezakan antara jed tulen dengan yang palsu.

Tidak sah kunjungan ke negara berkenaan jika anda tidak diperkenalkan dengan ubat-ubatan tradisional Cina selain tempat membeli pakaian dan tempat menarik untuk dikunjungi.

Sebenarnya, melancong ke Shenzen antara pengalaman yang tidak kurang menariknya. Ia terletak di daerah Guangdong Selatan dan berdekatan Hong Kong. Luasnya hampir 2,000 kilometer persegi dan zon ekonomi istimewa yang pertama di China. Dengan perkembangan lebih 30 tahun, kampung nelayan kecil ini berkembang menjadi bandar dengan lima juta penduduk.

Ketika bersiar-siar di bandar ini, kita akan merasakan bandar ini seperti bandar taman yang indah. Menerusi kalendar tahunan China, beberapa festival dan perayaan yang meliputi Pesta Antarabangsa Industri Kebudayaan, Hakka festival, Pengcheng Golden Autumn Festival, Chongyang Festival, Dragon Festival Seni Tari, Teater Besar Shenzhen Dameisha Internasional Festival dan Festival Patung Pasir semuanya ada di Shenzen.

Shenzen juga ada banyak bangunan pencakar langit, jalan raya yang bersimpang-siur tetapi sangat bersih dengan jajaran pokok menghijau melatari sepanjang jalan rayanya.

Di sini, yang menarik ialah banyaknya bangunan pejabat. Kita boleh berdiri di bangunan tinggi untuk menyaksikan pemandangan seluruh kota. Pasar Raya Diwang yang tingginya 383.95 meter adalah bangunan tertinggi di Shenzhen dan juga antara destinasi pelancongan, khusus untuk menyaksikan pemandangan Shenzhen dan Hong Kong dari sudut pandang paling tinggi atau disifatkan sebagai Tingkap Shenzhen-Hong Kong.

Ketika berkunjung ke destinasi pelancongan Pasar Raya Diwang, anda berpeluang menyaksikan banyak acara pelancongan yang turut disediakan kepada pelancong. Semua ini akan meninggalkan kenangan indah kepada pelancong.

China mempunyai pantai yang panjangnya 18,000 kilometer dan ada banyak kawasan renang di pantai indah. Kawasan Renang Xiaomeisha yang terkenal terletak di pantai Shenzhen.

Manakala pantai Xiaomeisha terletak di Teluk Dapeng, 30 kilometer di timur Bandar Shenzhen. Di pesisir pantai yang bersih ini, kita boleh berjemur di bawah sinaran mata hari, berenang dan menaiki bot getah atau bot laju di laut jika berminat.

Bagi penyelam, syurganya dapat dinikmati di laut sedalam 10 meter untuk menyaksikan pelbagai jenis ikan dan batu karang yang cantik serta boleh merakam gambar pemandangan indah ini.

Selain itu, Zoo Hidupan Liar Shenzhen menarik ramai pelancong ke sana dengan keluasan 1,200 meter persegi ia antara destinasi pelancongan yang berciri ekologi alam sekitar taman sub-tropika serta mempunyai lebih 10 ribu ekor haiwan daripada lebih 300 spesies.

Geyser, Negeri Koboi

Thursday, January 01, 1970 — Thursday, January 01, 1970

Jika ada rezeki, cubalah ke Montana, negeri koboi di utara Amerika Syarikat, melihat beruang grizzly dan kumpulan kuda bebas berlari.

Pasti juga terserempak gerombolan bison jika ke Taman Negara Yellowstone.

TIBA saja di kawasan peranginan Big Sky Resort, kira-kira satu jam perjalanan dari Lapangan Terbang Gallatin di Bozeman, Montana, rasa risau mula menyelubungi, bimbang peristiwa di Tehran kira-kira tiga tahun lalu, berulang lagi.

Apa tidaknya, di ibu negara Iran itu, penulis terlantar dua hari dek penangan demam selesema teruk. Ketika itu, salji di Tehran tidaklah begitu tebal, tetapi kerana saban hari bersulam suhu panas dalam kenderaan serta cuaca sejuk bersalji di sesetengah kawasan, suhu dalam badan pun jadi tak keruan.

Di pusat peranginan terkenal di Montana, cuaca lebih kurang sama. Musim sejuknya sudah semakin ke penghujung, namun salji masih ada dan turun sekali sekala. Big Sky Resort popular sebagai lokasi luncur salji di negara Uncle Sam ini, hotel serta rumah penginapan selalunya penuh dengan penggemar ski.

Di belakang hotel, kelihatan stesen `chairlift untuk membawa pengunjung naik ke puncak gunung bermain ski, namun nasib tidak menyebelahi kerana baru saja berkira-kira untuk ke puncak itu pada satu pagi, salji pula turun kembali.

Jika tidak merancang aktiviti, memang rasa bosan menyelubungi. Masa senggang banyak dihabiskan di hotel, aktiviti pagi hingga petang diisi tugasan hakiki, membuat liputan satu persidangan yang berlangsung di sini. Kesempatan yang sekali sekala menjengah digunakan ke Bozeman, bandar tipikal Amerika dengan bar, hotel bajet serta kedai kecil dan comel.

Montana negeri keempat terbesar di Amerika selepas Alaska, Texas dan California. Muka buminya bergunung-ganang dan tanah tinggi paling terkenal adalah Gunung Rocky. Sebab itu, negeri ini dinamakan Montana diambil daripada perkataan Sepanyol bermaksud `mountain atau gunung. Dari segi populasi, hanya ada sekitar sejuta penduduk di sini.

Untuk mencari orang Amerika sejati, Montana antara tempatnya, juga terkenal dengan lembunya hingga jumlah ternakan itu dikatakan melebihi populasi penduduk. Kerana industri itu juga, stik di sini dikatakan antara paling enak tetapi sudah tentu penulis tidak boleh menjamah kerana sudah ia bukan hidangan halal.

Di sini, sukar berjumpa bangsa lain kecuali beberapa warga Filipina dan Amerika Selatan yang bekerja di pusat peranginan. Imej negeri koboi diterjemahkan pekerja hotel yang berpakaian seperti gembala berkuda dengan but, denim dan topi koboi mereka.

Imej itu kian terserlah apabila singgah di pekan Yellowstone. Nama pekan itu saja seperti biasa kita dengar dalam filem `country. Mereka yang mahu ke Taman Negara Yellowstone dari arah Bozeman perlu melalui pekan ini dengan perjalanan dari Big Sky Resort mengambil masa kira-kira sejam setengah.

Masuk saja ke kawasan taman negara, sudah terserlah tarikannya. Ada sungai di sepanjang jalan, gunung-ganang dan haiwan liar. Kawasan ini taman negara pertama di dunia, diwartakan pada 1 Mac 1872 apabila Presiden Amerika, Ulysses S Grant menandatangani undang-undang pewartaan.

Disenaraikan sebagai Tapak Warisan Dunia UNESCO, sebahagian besar taman seluas 8,980 kilometer persegi ini terletak di Wyoming, berlokasi di Dataran Tinggi Yellowstone. Tiga ngarai paling dalam juga ada di sini, paling terkenal Grand Canyon Yellowstone, namun kekangan masa menghalang penulis ke sana.

Nasib terus tidak menyebelahi apabila tidak seekor pun beruang grizzly menampakkan diri walaupun seorang kenalan yang ke taman ini sehari sebelum kunjungan kami, memaklumkan dia bertuah dapat melihat haiwan berkenaan. Helang botak juga bersembunyi. Hanya ada bison, elk dan tupai kecil comel. Sekali sekala perjalanan kami terhalang dek gerombolan bison yang memenuhi laluan.

Paling menarik di sini adalah geyser atau pancutan air panas. Geyser adalah lubang di permukaan bumi yang pada waktu tertentu secara berkala menyemburkan air panas dan wap, menjadi satu fenomena amat menakjubkan. Penulis berpeluang menyaksikan keajaiban alam ini di Old Faithful, geyser paling terkenal.

Pancutan berlaku setiap 60 hingga 90 minit dan mengeluarkan beribu-ribu gelen air panas mendidih mencecah ketinggian 30 hingga 60 meter. Di sini juga ada kolam air panas yang terhasil akibat air bawah tanah yang dipanaskan secara geoterma dan mengalir keluar dari kerak bumi.

Selepas tiga jam, Taman Negara Yellowstone kami tinggalkan tetapi sempat membeli cenderahati di Old Faithful. Hanya magnet peti sejuk sebesar ibu jari, namun harganya agak mahal jika dibandingkan produk sama di negara kita. Biarlah mahal terpaksa juga beli kerana jika tidak, bila lagi mahu ke sini.

Rock star treatment at Hard Rock Pattaya

Thursday, January 01, 1970 — Thursday, January 01, 1970

A step into Hard Rock Hotel Pattaya is all it takes for LAVIINIA DHANAGUNAN to think shes in hallowed halls.

AUTHOR Neil Gaiman once said rock and roll stars have it much better than writers when theyre on tour. He probably didnt get to stay at Hard Rock Hotel Pattaya because its patrons are treated equally the moment they step inside.

Thanks to decorations in deep royal colours at the lobby and clothing donated by the likes of Prince and Madonna throughout the reception area, you may think youre staying in hallowed halls. Add to that a great welcome from the front office staff and you can be forgiven for the swagger in your step.

If that doesnt clinch it for you, the way the guard stands to attention when you wait by the lift to get to your room, or the way the front reception personnel sit up as you exit the lift or look ready to help with queries, surely would.

The hotel also has small rock-star moments in store for guests. The wing armchairs specially brought in look extremely inviting. Sink into any of these placed around the lobby and you may just nod off. Thats how comfortable they are.

The heat getting to you? The welcome drink upon check-in should refresh you instantly.

The pleasantries continue in the room - a minimalistic feel, miniature guitar imprints on the topside of the bedspread, themed toiletries and so on.

The rock-star feeling isnt lost on the little ones. The hotels recently introduced Family Suites will surely get your kids in the swing of things. They get to spread outin their double-bunk beds, or have their own private club, Lil Rock Club, which offers a range of activities such as games on the PlayStation 2 and Nintendo Wii, or go for a dip in the childrens pool. And all these under the watchful eye of Lil Rock Animators.

Theres also a new club for teens, scheduled to be ready by December.

Hard Rock Hotel is innovating itself to mark its 10th anniversary. Its been working on its makeover in stages since last October.

But the party still rocks every Saturday night, thanks to the hotels legendary Beach Foam-X Party. Kids and adults alike will have heaps of fun zipping through mounds of foam throughout the large freeform pool and man-made sandy beach.

Eight rejuvenating experiences at the Avillion, Port Dickson

Thursday, January 01, 1970 — Thursday, January 01, 1970

Laviinia Dhanagunan cant get enough of Avillion Port Dickson which recently upgraded its chalet facilities.

AS you step into the reception area of Avillion Port Dickson, youll notice aspects of a Malay fishing village in the surroundings.
Wood plays a big role in this sprawling resort, including the wooden bridge linking the reception area to the food and beverage outlets and chalets. The pathway leading to the chalets is lit softly, lending a subdued village ambience and enhancing the overall mood. The wooden walkway leading to the beach also makes you feel youve been transported back in time.

But that feeling vanishes when you step through the wooden doors into your chalet on stilts. Youll be blown away not just by the spacious interior, but also by the view of the Strait of Malacca from your balcony.

This four-star beach resort recently upgraded its chalet facilities, which now come equipped with wireless connectivity, flat-screen TV, digital compendium, luxurious bedding, powerful rain-shower and iPod docking system. These help guests to maintain their lifestyle needs whether on a vacation or business trip.

The hotel recently concluded its 8 Reasons To Be RE.JU.VE.NA.TED promotional campaign that took place from June 1 to July 31 on the new facilities. Eight lucky draws ranging from free stays, spa treatments and meal vouchers were given away daily.

While staying in one of the water chalets, I came out with my takeon the resorts eight rejuvenating experiences.

Blissful moments at the pool

Being able to swim without much interference from boisterous youngsters is usually rare when at a hotel. This luxury was something I absolutely enjoyed while at Avillion Port Dickson.

You can lose yourself themoment you dive into the deep blue waters of the swimming pool. When spent, rest on a lounge chair by the pool or go back to your room. When lounging by the pool, you may even have a surprise visitor - one of the peacocks which roam freely at the resort.

Spending indulgent hours at the spa

Visit any hotel spa and youll find that it is generally housed within the main building. If it isnt, its usually a single-storey outfit tucked away in a corner.

At this resort, the spa enjoys a prime spot overlooking the Strait of Malacca. The Avi Spa is also en route to the rooms, making it convenient for guests to visit. The best part, though, is lazing in the lounge area above the spa. The keyhole-shaped protruding seating space allows for front-row seats that open to a view of the sky and amazing sunsets - provided theres no haze, of course. Downstairs, you can indulge in a variety of treatments from the Oceanic Wrap to the signature treatment labelled Malay Strength.

Raindrops are falling on my head

The sensation of raindrops falling down on us is something we all can relate to. Thanks to rain showerheads, that walking in therain experience can be had at any time. The beauty of this showerhead is that it allows for a massage-like experience, ideal to end the day with.

Experiencing a traditional Malay foot wash

The simple act of washing the feet before entering the chalet becomes surprisingly memorable when its done the traditional way. You use a ladle to scoop water from glazed clay jars placed just outside the chalet. In fact, the first thing that meets the eye when turning into the walkway leading to the chalet is such a jar almost filled to the brim with water. Its the little touches, like this one, that make you feel at home while also giving you the opportunity to learn about culture.

Penning thoughts at Authors Lane

This is my favourite place to relax in during twilight thanks to the cool air and breeze. The bonus point is that its called Authors Lane. Its not often that I come across a treat like this so I make much use of it. A hotel staff says the area is for hotel guests to read or write. One guests musings made such a mark on the establishment that its been immortalised on a stone lying just past the breakfast area.

Having fun at the pet farm

Within the compound ofAvillions pet farm, snow-white, cocoa and midnight-coloured rabbits mingle with peacocks that sport brilliant plumage. Also puffing their chests out are the cockerels. The males strut around the enclosure with their colourful feathers. Children are not the only ones entranced by the sight as adults also stop to look at this animal kingdom within the hotel, especially during feeding time.

Walking through Art Space

This corner, which catches the eye while walking up to the reception area and car park, has a number of paintings by localartists as well as breathtaking photographs by underwater photographers. Avillion Port Dickson senior director of operations Gared Mario Cubinar says proceeds from the sale of the paintings or photographs are donated towards charity.

Lazing on the pangkin

This is the highlight of my stay - spread out on the pangkin (day bed), alternating between watching the world go by and reading with the warm sun on my skin.

While in the room, I use the day bed as much as I can. Sitting close to the window allows me to hear the waves crashing against the pillars under the cabin. Its the best way to start and end the day.

How to get there

Unlike other hotels or resorts in Port Dickson, Avillion has no regular welcome gate or driveway.

There are just two simple signboards - one leads to the driveway behind the lush jungle, and the other leads to a parking space across the road.

Those coming from the North- South Highway should take the Port Dickson exit and head to the Seremban-PD Highway. From there, take the PD exit and you will reach the Jalan Pantai T-junction. Then turn right to go to PD town.

The resort is hardly five minutes drive from the junction. For reservations, call 06-647 6688, fax 06-647 7688 or visit Avillion Port Dickson.

Blue ocean paradise at at Sabahs offshore resorts

Thursday, January 01, 1970 — Thursday, January 01, 1970

Beautiful islands, exotic marine life and poetic sunsets. R. GOWRI gets a taste of the good life at Sabahs offshore resorts

THERE must be a spell worked into the lyrics of that song. For a month, the words to Knee Deep by Zac Brown Band had been swimming around in my head, its singer teasing me with visions of a champagne shore and a sweet sweet life living by the salty sea.
Trapped in the barbecue pit that was Kuala Lumpur in July, it all seemed a mere mirage.

And then, with the swoosh of the editors wand, Sipadan and its sister islands of Mabul and Kapalai - which rank among the premier diving regions in the world - were beckoning, by way of a Sabah Tourism media invite. I am to be whisked off by AirAsia to check out this blue ocean paradise for myself.

We land at Tawau, the closest airport, and are bundled into a minivan for a 30-minute ride to the jetty at Semporna town. The sun is still lording it in the skies but what a difference the sea breeze makes!

Board and lodging are a toss between Borneo Divers Mabul Resort and Seaventures Dive Resort. The latter, a converted oil rig, the only one of its kind in the world, is my immediate choice. It promises a unique stay in a carpet of sea. My only anxiety is: Will they make me climb up that scary metal structure to get to my room?

The speedboat is soon edging close to the bright orange rig and I sense immediately that I am going to enjoy the experience. An aerial lift comes sliding down and bags and all are soon on deck level. It isnt the Hilton for sure, the spacious wooden deck with its utilitarian chairs, tables and curved bar has a cowboy terrain look about it... except, those men standing around suited up in black diving gear are no cowboys. Unless, youd prefer to think of these underwater adventurers as cowboys of the deep.

One of the great things about the resort is that from anywhere on the rig, you get an unhindered view of the sea and the distant islands, even from the rooms, which have portholes for windows. I check into a twin.

There are also single supplements and several dorms. All rooms except the dorms come with attached washrooms and air-conditioning.

You can chill on the sun deck, the games room with its pool table and table tennis, the karaoke lounge or the main deck.

There is WiFi connectivity in all places.

The rooms are small but lounging in the room surely isnt going to figure largely in anyones itinerary.

Dive masters, however, certainly are. The ones at Seaventures are certified, attentive and armed with a sly sense of humour. No one in our group has diving experience so our party sets out for snorkelling in the waters nearby.

As the master divers check our apparatus and guide us from the boat into the clear blue waters, it feels like a whole new mystical world has opened up, the sort they keep showing you on the National Geographic channel but you never actually think youd experience. But here it is, for real.

Water adventures

The bottom of the Celebes sea at our location is busy with traffic but the kind youd die for. It seems to be peak hour for the marine life... or is it always like this?

Shoals of fish swim beneath you, around you, some dart in and out of corals which are wrought in fantastic shapes. My diver guide, Mohd Taufiq, nudges me and points to a Hawksbill turtle. It is huge, but a study in grace as it dives into the coral and noses about. It brings home the importance of protecting these and other endangered species, so future generations too, can marvel at these spectacular sea creatures.

Since the Mabul-Sipadan-Kapalai area boasts some 75 per cent of marine biodiversity in the world, youre likely to bump into a huge underwater community of weird and wonderful beings - barracuda, moray eel, manta ray, pygmy seahorse, boxfish, frogfish, jack, and much more.

We could have spent hours there, the underwater world is just so alive and beautiful.

The Mabul area is also one of the best macro diving sites anywhere.

Right under the rig itself, the waters are deep so diving, not snorkelling, is the only activity. There are house reefs underneath which a diver can explore and meander through, inhabited by many, many species of fish and crustaceans.

As for us, we are completely happywith our snorkelling stint and at sunset, head back to the rig. But the evening doesnt tail off into a dozy end. The barbecue grill has been fired up and we tuck into a seafood feast - tuna, prawns, squid and peppers on satay sticks, lamb chops, chicken and various salads, fruit and pudding. Unsullied by an overdose of marinades, the naturally sweet flavours of fresh seafood come through perfectly. The kitchen crew has passed with flying colours.

As we eat, some of our friendly divers come on deck to do their next favourite thing - make music. Yes, Seaventures has an in-house band, made up of divers and kitchen staff.

Rock classics at twilight, great food on the table, deep blue sea and rust-coloured sky, cool sea breezes... there cant be very many places anywhere in the world that can top this.

And if you peer over the railings on the rig, you can still catch sight of shoals of fish swimming beneath the surface. In fact, night dives from the rig are popular with guests.

Occasionally, Shamser Sidhu, resort manager of Seaventures Dive Resort, takes one too.

Floating Kapalai

Kapala is about 40 minutes from Semporna jetty.

Its a 20-minute boat ride from Seaventures and Mabul island and 15 mins from Sipadan. Our speedboat lives up to its tag and our captain has us stepping down on the island in 10 minutes, a little drenched from the exhilarating ride. The island actually sits on the sandbanks of the Ligitan Reefs and what you have are some 45 gorgeously rustic chalets built on stilts.

The floating resort is a treat for the senses. The sea stretches on all sides into the horizon and, as you stroll down the boardwalks leading to the chalets, you see the sea swishing around the stilts, fish swimming past and fronds of potted plants waving in the breeze. Its truly peaceful and soothing. The longest walkway leads to a wooden pergola at its tip. You can take the steps down into the white sandbar and wade in the shallow translucent sea or seat yourself right down in the cool waters and watch little white crabs and other macro life going about their business.

Tour packages with buffet lunch are offered for non-boarders. The restaurant offers in-house and alfresco dining.

Snorkelling and diving packages are also available. Diving is minutes away at Sipadan and Mabul.

Kapalai Resorts is a haunt for honeymooners because of its picture postcard setting - remote, beautiful and haunting. At times, the wind provides the music.

How to get there

Get to Tawau, Sabah, with AirAsia flights from Kuala Lumpur, thrice daily. Follow AirAsias latest updates and promotions via Facebook or Twitter.

Some travel sites (such as Borneo Travel Services Sdn Bhd) offer transport from Tawau airport to Semporna (van with driver or car for hire) and onward boat ride to resorts in the Sipadan-Mabul-Kapalai area, complementing the diver and non-diver packages.

Snorkelling packages includes masks, snorkel, pins and life jackets and diving packages are also offered with experienced and certified divers.

The writers trip to Sabah was courtesy of AirAsia and Sabah Tourism Board.

From Cove to cave in Australia

Thursday, January 01, 1970 — Thursday, January 01, 1970

It may have been tiring - tough even - but LAVIINIA DHANAGUNAN finds it a day to remember at Mareeba Wetlands and Trezkinn Cave in Queensland.

OUR day-long trip to Chillagoe in Queensland, Australia, starts with a quick breakfast in our hotel at Palm Cove before we meet our guide from Billy Tea Safaris.

Whats meant to be a quick coffee turns into a leisurely breakfast.

Later, were bundled into our unique transport for the day: It looks like a converted truck with seating space for 12 people.

It is a custom-built 4WD which the local tour operator uses for personalised tours.

Our bespectacled guide proves to be a treasure trove of information about the Outback as the day progresses.

The 450km trip to the small country town of Chillagoe traverses vast, green land and rugged terrain.

You may be tempted to catch a snooze on the road trip. However, keeping awake is worth the effort as we catch sight of animals and birds in their natural environment.

We get a glimpse of a wedge-tailed eagle perched on the branch of an iron-bark tree. This brown bird of prey, also the largest species in the category, looks down regally from its spot on the tree which, despite its name, is a member of the eucalyptus family.

About an hour later, we reach Mareeba Wetlands.

Natures treat

The Mareeba Tropical Savanna and Wetland Reserve, opened to the public in September 1999, is teeming with flora and fauna - making it a favourite haunt of birdwatchers especially in spring.

The 2,000-hectare tourist attraction, formerly a stock reserve for Cape York cattle owners, is a hive of activity in July and August due to avid birdwatchers.

One can expect to see 60 species in a day - more if one spends the night as many species are regular visitors and breeders. The best way to experience the attraction is to stay in one of its campsites, Jabiru Camp.

Unfortunately, we only manage to catch sight of one of the 204 species of birds said to call this 12-year-old establishment home. Its probably because we spend less than an hour here.

Sporting a fleshy red wattle at the top of its head, the comb-crested jacana wades idyllically away from our boat as we cruise around Lily Lagoon.

The biggest of eight lagoons in the reserve, Lily Lagoon is so called for the pale pink and white lotus flowers on its surface.

Bladderwort, freshwater tortoise, file snake, black bream catfish, barramundi and sarratoga also call this freshwater haven home.

One thing to note while travelling in tropical North Queensland is that you really feel the kiss of heat on your skin.

So bring lots of protection from the sun such as sunscreen, a wide hat, polarised sunglasses or thin, long-sleeved T-shirts.

Pit-stop in Almaden

The trip resumes with a bumpy 5km ride down a dirt access road out of the entrance to Mareeba before we get back onto tarred road.

We make a quick pit-stop for lunch at Almaden, a picturesque country town which is a testimony to rural life.

I count maybe five houses before we reach the town centre, a single street with a post office, a visitor centre, a hotel and a pub.

It gets even more quaint when we step into the pub for our lunch. Sitting in single file at the bar, we sip sodas while waiting for our burgers to come off the grill.

And what a burger! The mere sight of the delicious looking chargrilled beef patty is enough to get the gastric juices going.

Each juicy bite is a discovery, thanks to the unique addition of a slice of beetroot to the usual suspects of slightly caramelised onions, lettuce and tomato slices.

We must have consumed more than 500 calories in that one sitting but its pub grub that worth every morsel. No wonder the walls have numerous scrawls of satisfied customers from all over the world.

Burning it up

Our fears of over-eating, however, are worked out of the system, literally, when we get to Trezkinn Cave, the only limestone cave open to visitors at this time, just after the rainy season.

Trezkinn Cave, discovered in the 1950s, boasts spectacular formations and is one of two venues lit up by electric lighting.

It is one of 600 to 700 limestone caves found in Chillagoe-Mungana Caves National Park and only guided tours are allowed.

The mere 100m ascent to the mouth of the cave sees us working up a sweat.

We inch our way down the steep stairwell leading to its base, taking care to step firmly as each step is wet with drops of water.

In front of me is a woman whos afraid of being in confined spaces but she bravely makes it through each harrowing moment. Perhaps, in her mind, its worth all that effort to see stalactite and stalagmite formations throughout the 15-minute walk round the base of the cave.

Trezkinn Cave has soft lights lighting up the walkway and the details of the formations can be gaped at from a viewing area.

Its quite interesting to see how rainwater influences the formation of flowstones within the cave and how something natural such as bat droppings can disfigure a stalagmite formation.

Back to Palm Cove

For the trip back to Palm Cove, we wind through Mac Allister Range, with a quick stop at Skybury coffee plantation.

For a coffee lover like me, this is the ultimate treat especially after a tiring day.

However, a strict schedule leaves me with no option other than a quick run-around inside and looking longingly out the windows at the plantation.

That day goes down as one to remember.

The writers trip to Cairns is courtesy of Tourism Australia.

Keindahan 6 negara

Thursday, January 01, 1970 — Thursday, January 01, 1970

Belanda, Jerman, Republic Czech,Austria, Switzerland dan Perancis memiliki tarikan tersendiri yang mampu menggamit pelancong

KUNJUNGAN ke Belanda, Jerman, Republik Czech, Austria, Switzerland dan Perancis sememangnya mengujakan. Bak kata pepatah, jauh perjalanan luas pengalaman, panorama berbeza menjadi santapan mata di setiap negara dikunjungi tanpa disedari mengetuk hati penulis untuk lebih menghargai keindahan ciptaan Ilahi. Dua puluh hari mengembara di Eropah menjadi pengalaman manis buat penulis yang masih tidak lekang di ingatan.

Pemergian tanpa dirancang bermula sebaik ibu penulis yang baru bersara, teringin memenuhi impian merentasi negara di benua berkenaan.

Dek kembara berkenaan tidak menggunakan khidmat ejen pelancongan, peta menjadi barangan yang wajib dibeli sebagai panduan arah jalan dan tempat menarik di setiap destinasi yang kami kunjungi.

Kawan ibu saudara yang lebih 30 tahun menetap di Perancis menjadi pemandu kereta yang membawa kami ke enam negara, sekali gus pemandu pelancong tidak rasmi kami. Khidmat lelaki dari Malaysia yang mendapat taraf penduduk tetap Perancis itu diperlukan kerana dia lebih arif dengan negara di Kesatuan Eropah berkenaan.

Di Republik Czech, kami mengunjungi Prague atau disebut Praha oleh penduduk tempatan. Gambaran awal penulis mengenai negara ini ialah ia tidak sekaya negara Eropah lain. Sebaik sampai ke Republik Czech dari Jerman, yang kelihatan di tepi jalan ialah ladang yang kurang cantik dan tersusun.

Negara yang wujud pada 1993 selepas pemecahan Czechoslovakia itu menggunakan mata wang Krone iaitu satu Euro (RM4.30) bersamaan 20 Krone. Prague yang juga ibu negara menjadi pusat ekonomi, kebudayaan dan politik Eropah, terutama Eropah Tengah, sejak 1,100 tahun kewujudannya.

Berdasarkan maklumat pada risalah pelancongan, antara tarikan utama ialah Istana Prague, Charles Bridge, Old Town Square, Jewish Quarter, Lennon Wall dan bukit Petrin. Namun, penulis tidak berkunjung di kawasan berkenaan, cuma bersiar-siar di bandar melihat gelagat manusia.

Penduduknya tidak begitu mesra dan tidak semua boleh bercakap Bahasa Inggeris tetapi apabila ditanya, mereka menjawab dengan sopan.

Sistem pengangkutan awam moden menghubungkan Prague. Ia mempunyai jaringan jalan raya yang baik selain kemudahan tren dan pengangkutan udara.

Bagi penulis, pemandangan bandar terbesar di republik itu biasa saja kerana kebanyakan bangunan nampak sama. Bagaimanapun, walaupun luar bangunan kelihatan seni bina lama, di bahagian dalam bangunan wujud taman dan lanskap menarik. Pemandangan di negara ini juga tidak secantik di Switzerland yang kebanyakan bandarnya mempunyai tasik.

Di Czech, barangan kristal berkualiti tinggi dijual pada harga murah. Apapun, penulis cuma mencuci mata membelek set pinggan mangkuk daripada kristal kerana tidak berhajat membelinya.

Ketika mengunjungi kedai Arab yang menjual makanan basah serta makanan dalam tin, Pak Arab yang ramah membantu kami mencari hotel dengan menghubungi rakannya.

Selain membantu mendapatkan hotel dengan harga berpatutan berserta diskaun, dia turut memberitahu kedai makan Arab. Kami menikmati kebab dan nasi Arab.

Di sini, matahari terbenam lewat iaitu jam 8.30 malam manakala waktu siang lebih panjang dengan subuh bermula jam 5 pagi.

Pejabat dan restoran ditutup jam 5 petang manakala kebanyakan kedai dimiliki orang Asia beroperasi hingga jam 8 malam menjual cenderahati dari negara masing-masing.

Antara barangan cenderahati yang boleh dibawa pulang ialah kemeja-T, topi, poskad dan magnet peti sejuk. Kereta kuda boleh dilihat di mana-mana menjadi tarikan kepada pelancong asing.

Seperkara yang penulis perhatikan, penduduk di sini menghormati pejalan kaki dengan memberi laluan jika mereka ingin melintas.

Kami dimaklumkan, bersiar pada waktu malam tidak digalakkan kerana bimbang menjadi sasaran penyeluk saku. Pelbagai makanan disediakan di negara ini seperti makanan Jepun, Pakistan, India, Thailand dan China.

Penulis bermalam di inap desa di pinggir bandar. Lokasinya tidak jauh dari laluan tram. Untuk menikmati panorama di ibu negara berkenaan, kami mengambil keputusan menaiki tram tetapi tidak turun di sebarang stesen, sebaliknya pulang semula ke lokasi awal.

Ketika bersiar-siar, penulis terjumpa wanita Indonesia yang bekerja di sana. Dia menunjukkan tempat membeli cenderahati murah.

Di kaki lima, penulis sempat bergambar dengan patung tetapi tiba-tiba ia bergerak. Rupa-rupanya ia patung bernyawa yang membuat persembahan jalanan, terpulang kepada pemerhati sama ada ingin memberi sumbangan atau sebaliknya.

Bertamu tiga hari dua malam di Vienna, Austria, penulis dapat menyaksikan sambutan Hari Easter yang diraikan masyarakat beragama Kristian. Banyak gerai menjual coklat manakala telur yang menjadi lambang kesuburan menjadi hiasan.

Kami mengunjungi taman Turki yang dihiasi seni bina indah. Jika kami memakai baju sejuk dan tebal untuk menahan kesejukan, orang di sana pula selamba memakai seluar pendek, mungkin disebabkan sudah biasa.

Kami mengambil keputusan menaiki LRT untuk meneroka pemandangan di Vienna. Sepanjang perjalanan, kami berpeluang melihat taman perumahan menarik serta kereta kuda yang menjadi tarikan di kalangan pelancong.

Uniknya, kerajaan Austria menetapkan warna tertentu untuk tulip yang ditanam pada setiap tahun. Tahun ini, tulip putih dan kuning menjadi tema.

Di Jerman, penulis tinggal di dua tempat berbeza iaitu Erfurt, kira-kira 200 kilometer dari Frankfurt, dan Dresden.

Biarpun Erfurt bandar kecil, ia masih menyediakan kemudahan pengangkutan awam yang bagus.

Di sana, penduduknya tidak membawa kenderaan tetapi lebih suka menggunakan pengangkutan awam. Antara negara Kesatuan Eropah yang penulis kunjungi, Jerman paling bersih, malah ia terkenal sebagai negara yang tinggi tahap kesedaran terhadap alam sekitar.

Uniknya, sepanjang tiga hari dua malam di negara pembersih ini, penulis tidak menjumpai walau seekor semut dan nyamuk pun.

Di Perancis, penulis berpeluang mengunjungi ladang mustard, sejenis tanaman atau rempah yang biasanya dibuat sos berwarna kuning. Ladang saujana mata memandang mengingatkan penulis pada sawah padi, tetapi ladang ini dimeriahkan dengan warna kuning bunga mustard.

Ketika mengunjungi sebuah bangunan lama yang indah seni binanya, kami berpeluang melihat pengantin baru yang kebetulan mengadakan majlis perkahwinan di luar bangunan berkenaan.

Berbeza dengan kebanyakan negara Eropah, di Perancis, banyak bangunan moden didirikan manakala jalan rayanya sesak.

Kesimpulannya, melancong tanpa pakej tidak sesukar mana. Untuk tempoh 10 hari perjalanan, kami membeli tiket menerusi on-line berharga RM1,500 yang membolehkan kami pergi ke mana-mana negara Eropah.

Kedai kopi tiada kerusi di Munich

Thursday, January 01, 1970 — Thursday, January 01, 1970

KOTA purba dengan sentuhan semasa, itulah Munich atau disebut rakyat tempatan, M1/4nchen. Kota asal BMW dan kelab bola sepak terkenal dunia, Bayern Munich ini dianggap antara terbersih dan tercantik di dunia.

MUNICH atau Munchen - sebenarnya kedua-dua sebutan itu sama saja, merujuk kota terkenal di Jerman yang menjadi antara kosmopolitan paling bersih dan cantik di dunia pernah penulis lawati, berbaloi walaupun letih menaiki penerbangan 14 jam dari Lapangan Terbang Antarabangsa Kuala Lumpur (KLIA).

Penulis dibawa ke sana oleh Kaspersky Lab, syarikat penyedia perisian anti-virus berpejabat di Moscow, Russia sempena persidangan pelajar antarabangsa di Technical University of Munchen, baru-baru ini. Munich adalah bandar purba yang dibaik pulih dengan rekaan serta sentuhan kontemporari.

Bangunannya paling tinggi pun enam tingkat, bagi memastikan tiada satu pun premis di kota ini melebihi ketinggian gereja tertua Gereja St Peters. Walaupun berstatus negara maju, masyarakatnya tetap teguh kepada prinsip, tidak pentingkan keuntungan hingga menghapuskan nilai estetika seni bina sejak berzaman.

Berada dalam suasana konvensional, tidak menghalang penduduk menghidupkan bandar lama itu dengan pelbagai aktiviti yang secara tidak langsung menarik kemasukan pelancong. Usaha bermula dengan inisiatif memperindahkan sekitar bandar dengan memberi sentuhan baru kepada pasar awam harian tertua iaitu Viktralienmarkt.

Nama itu diambil daripada perkataan Latin, Victualia bermaksud groseri atau barangan keperluan harian. Aktiviti ekonomi di situ menceriakan kehidupan masyarakat tempatan dan menjadi tumpuan utama pelancong. Lokasinya strategik dan mudah dikunjungi dengan kereta api, tram atau bas ke Stesen S Bahn menuju U3 atau U6 sebelum ke Marienplatz.

Pasar yang beroperasi seawal 1807 ini asalnya tempat pengumpulan barangan hasil pertanian masyarakat setempat antaranya buahbuahan, sayur, susu dan keju, tangkapan laut, kraftangan serta bunga. Perniagaan bermula jam 8 pagi hingga 6 petang itu memberi peluang pelancong melihat sendiri cara hidup masyarakat setempat.

Penulis sempat singgah di kedai kopi dan sudut menjual roti serta pastri, hasrat hati mahu duduk dan melepaskan lelah seketika, namun tiada pula kerusi disediakan. Rupa-rupanya pelanggan akan membeli apa yang dihajati dan terus dibawa pulang. Begitu juga dengan kedai kopi, walaupun meja disediakan tetapi tiada kerusi.

Mungkin pelik, tetapi itulah hakikatnya. Pelanggan memesan secawan kopi, diminum secara berdiri di sebelah meja kecil. Tempoh masa diambil sekitar lima hingga 10 minit untuk menghabiskan secawan kopi. Cara ini tidak menggalakkan pelanggan berada lama di premis, mungkin sesuai juga dilaksanakan di Malaysia bagi mengatasi aktiviti lepak.

Peliknya masyarakat di negara maju begitu mementingkan masa, hanya beli apa yang mahu dan terus dibungkus sama ada untuk dimakan di pejabat sebagai sarapan mahupun bekalan tengah hari tanpa perlu duduk di gerai yang pasti akan mengambil masa.

Bersiar-siar sekitar bandar ini membawa penulis kepada penemuan yang tidak disangka-sangka. Rupa-rupanya di kota yang jauhnya beribu-ribu kilometer dari negara kita, boleh lagi menemui buah-buahan tropika. Hati begitu teruja melihat longgokan kecil durian, rambutan, salak, kundang dan limau madu di sudut gerai buah-buahan tropika.

Walaupun jumlah masyarakat Asia di sini terlalu kecil, buah-buahan ini ada pasarannya walaupun harga sekilo durian dan rambutan mencecah 19.90 euro atau RM85.57 sekilogram jika mengambil kira nilai tukaran mata wang semasa.

Teruskan perjalanan ke tempat menarik sekitar Munich, selain stadium terkemuka The Allianz Arena, tempat di mana pemain kelab bola sepak terkenal dunia, Bayern Munich beraksi yang terletak di utara kota. Pastinya kunjungan ke Munich tidak lengkap tanpa melawat Muzium BMW yang diasaskan pada 1913.

BMW memulakan operasi pada 1917 dengan pengeluaran enjin kapal terbang sebelum enjin motosikal pada 1928, seterusnya kereta. Terdahulu penulis melawat Schloss Palace, Nymphenburg, menyaksikan keindahan binaan bercirikan sistem beraja zaman pemerintahan Bavaria.

Penat berjalan, rehat sebentar menghirup udara segar di English Garden, taman terbesar di Munich yang menjadi lokasi pilihan penduduk setempat beriadah terutama pada musim panas. Jangan lupa juga singgah di kaki menara Olympic Tower setinggi 290 meter.

Struktur di Taman Olimpik Munich ini yang dirasmikan pada 1968, turut menyediakan restoran berputar pada ketinggian 180 meter, membolehkan pengunjung menyaksikan keindahan bandar raya secara pusingan selama 53 minit sekali putaran.

INFO

Kongsi pengalaman anda melancong ke luar negara dengan menghantar rencana dan gambar ke bminggu@bharian.com.my atau ke alamat Berita Minggu, 31, Jalan Riong, 59100, Bangsar, Kuala Lumpur.

Raja Ampat, Papua Barat - Bagai di Syurga Dasar Laut

Thursday, January 01, 1970 — Thursday, January 01, 1970

Teruja dengan kecantikan dasar laut di Raja Ampat yang masih terpelihara dan tidak tercemar.

JARAK antara Sulawesi dan Papua Barat tidaklah jauh, malah wilayah ini berjiran di Indonesia. Yang menjauhkan mereka hanyalah rencah hidup dan budayanya. Mereka mudah dibezakan.

Di Sulawesi, majoriti orangnya berkulit sawo matang tetapi di Papua orangnya berkulit hitam dan berambut kerinting.

Itu juga yang membuatkan dua wilayah di Indonesia Timur ini menarik, baik daripada segi perbezaan budaya dan manusianya, bahkan keindahan muka bumi serta alam semula jadi. Dua tempat ini menjanjikan segala-galanya kepada orang luar.

Penghujung April lalu, penulis menjejakkan kaki ke sana. Tidak lama masa penulis habiskan di dua wilayah ini, iaitu hanya empat hari di Makassar, Sulawesi dan enam hari di Raja Ampat, Papua Barat.

Berada di dua wilayah ini, banyak pengalaman menarik untuk dikongsi, bukan untuk diri penulis malah bersama sembilan rakan lain dalam rombongan penulis.

Percutian kami ketika itu juga bukan semata-mata makan angin, sebaliknya menjalankan aktiviti selam skuba di Kepulauan Raja Ampat. Rombongan ini diketuai jurulatih selam skuba berpengalaman, Ismadi Ismail, 35, yang pernah berkunjung ke situ.

Ikuti catatan ringkas penulis dalam mengimbas kehidupan masyarakat, budaya dan menikmati keindahan alam semula jadi sepanjang 10 hari di kedua-dua wilayah berkenaan.

DARI MAKASSAR KE SORONG

Setiap inci kota Makassar dipenuhi ratusan manusia. Jalan rayanya haru-biru. Suasananya hiruk pikuk. Bas, lori, kereta dan motosikal bersimpang siur. Kota yang dulunya dikenali sebagai Ujung Pandang menjadi tumpuan manusia.

Makassar sebenarnya hanya persinggahan sebelum melanjutkan perjalanan ke Sorong untuk ke Raja Ampat. Sementara menunggu penerbangan ke Sorong, kami menghabiskan masa dua hari di kota ini.

Kesempatan itu membuka peluang untuk berkunjung ke tempat menarik di sekitar Makassar. Pertama, kami singgah Fort Rotterdam. Ia kubu dan tempat bersejarah ketika penjajahan Belanda di negara itu.

Penjajah Belanda menawan pelabuhan yang dulunya dikenali sebagai Pelabuhan Makassar itu pada 1667. Tempat ini bersejarah, dulu banyak pertumpahan darah berlaku di situ antara penduduk tempatan dan penjajah.

Kami seterusnya berkunjung ke perkampungan budaya masyarakat Bugis yang juga majoriti masyarakat di Kepulauan Sulawesi. Kurang lengkap rasanya kunjungan ke Makassar jika tidak cuba mengenali lebih dekat budaya orang Bugis di situ.

Di sini, suku Bugis adalah rumpun masyarakat yang besar dan dibahagikan mengikut daerah tertentu. Ada Bugis Bone, Bulukumba, Enrekang, Gowa, Jeneponto, Luwu, Parepare, Pinrang, Polmas, Soppeng, Takalar, Tana Toraja dan Wajo. Di Sulawesi selatan saja, ada 24 daerah untuk suku ini.

Ketika di perkampungan Bugis, kami dapat melihat rumah adat suku kaum Bugis mengikut daerah masing-masing. Setiap satunya ada kelainan tersendiri dan berbeza-beza.

Destinasi ini menarik untuk dikunjungi, lebih-lebih lagi ia terletak berhampiran pantai dengan pemandangan mempesonakan.

Sayangnya, ia tidak dijaga. Rata-rata rumah adat di situ terbiar, sebilangan rumah pula dijadikan kediaman orang yang sepatutnya bertanggungjawab menjaga rumah berkenaan.

RAJA AMPAT, PAPUA BARAT

Perjalanan kami ke Sorong dilanjutkan dengan menaiki penerbangan domestik lebih kurang dua jam penerbangan. Untuk ke Papua Barat, Sorong adalah pintu masuknya.

Ia hanya kota kecil. Janggal juga rasanya berada di kota ini memandangkan orangnya jauh berbeza dengan kebanyakan penduduk Indonesia.

Mereka hitam dan berambut kerinting, sama seperti orang kulit hitam di Barat. Hanya persamaan bahasa sedikit sebanyak membuatkan penulis dekat dengan mereka.

Dari Sorong, kami menuju ke Raja Ampat. Perjalanan kali ini diteruskan dengan menaiki kapal layar bermotor. Empat hingga lima jam perjalanan laut perlu ditempuhi untuk sampai ke kepulauan berkenaan.

Bagi yang tidak biasa menempuhi perjalanan laut yang panjang, tempoh itu memang menyeksakan. Penulis dan dua tiga rakan lain mengalami mabuk laut.

Pun begitu, semua itu tertebus selepas menikmati keindahan dasar laut Raja Ampat. Banyak destinasi selam skuba yang penulis kunjungi, termasuk di Pulau Sipadan di negara kita, namun tidak dapat menandingi kecantikan dasar laut di Raja Ampat.

Ia masih terpelihara. Panorama di dasar lautnya hebat dan tidak tercemar. Pengalaman yang tidak mungkin dapat dilupakan ialah ketika melakukan selam skuba di tapak selaman, Mikes Point.

Di situ, lanskap dasar lautnya sangat cantik. Sebut saja apa jenis hidupan laut dan batu karang, semuanya terhidang di depan mata. Bagaikan di syurga dasar laut.

Pari paus juga mudah di temui di kepulauan ini. Kami menemuinya ketika menyelam di tapak selaman Manta Sandy. Lebih menyeronokkan, selepas menyelam di Manta Sandy, kami melihat kumpulan ikan lumba-lumba bermain-main berhampiran kapal kami.

Hari-hari terakhir selaman, penulis dan rakan menyelam di kawasan paya iaitu Wasiar Mangrove. Meskipun kawasan paya, airnya jernih. Pemandangan dasar lautnya memang lain daripada yang lain.

Pernah seorang rakan wartawan berkata kepada penulis, tidak lengkap bergelar penyelam skuba jika tidak pergi ke Raja Ampat. Memang benar, bagi penyelam skuba, Raja Ampat adalah pulau yang wajib dikunjungi.

Ia syurga buat kaki selam. Bayangkan, sepanjang mengadakan aktiviti selam skuba di Raja Ampat, penulis hanya berkesempatan mengunjungi 16 tapak selaman, sedangkan di sana ada lebih 300 tapak selaman yang dikenal pasti.

Itu hanya jumlah tapak yang dikenal pasti, masih banyak lagi dunia dasar lautnya yang belum diterokai. Kepulauan ini merangkumi 610 pulau, dan hanya 35 pulau didiami manusia.

Raja Ampat memiliki 1,397 spesies ikan batu karang daripada 1,606 spesies yang didapati di seluruh perairan Papua Barat.

Daripada jumlah itu, 35 spesies hanya boleh ditemui di kepulauan ini dan Papua Barat (termasuk seluruh Papua New Guinea).

Seluruh Papua merekodkan 603 jenis batu karang dan ia membabitkan 75 peratus batu karang di seluruh dunia. Jumlah itu 10 kali lebih banyak berbanding batu karang yang ditemui di seluruh Kepulauan Caribbean.

KEMBALI KE MAKASSAR

Dua hari terakhir kami tidak banyak melakukan aktiviti, melainkan menunggu masa pulang ke Kuala Lumpur.

Lagi pula badan masih keletihan selepas enam hari melakukan aktiviti selam skuba di Raja Ampat. Sedikit masa yang ada hanya dihabiskan dengan membeli-belah dan berpusing-pusing di sekitar kota Makassar.

Selepas puas menikmati keindahan dasar laut dan alam semula jadi di Raja Ampat, penulis mula terasa `sesak menghabiskan sisa-sisa terakhir di Makassar. Berada di perut kota ini dengan penduduknya yang ramai memang menyesakkan.

Lebih-lebih lagi sebelah malamnya haru biru dan hiruk pikuk kota ini tidak menentu. Kelab dangdut dibanjiri warga kotanya.

Pesisir jalan penuh dengan kanak-kanak yang berpeleseran. Jika bertemu `orang luar, mulalah mereka datang berduyun-duyun meminta sedekah.

Sebagaimana lazimnya di Indonesia, orang luar bagi mereka adalah lubuk wang. Apalagi wanitanya, ramai suka mengejar orang luar untuk wang dan mereka sanggup lakukan apa saja demi mendapatkan wang.

Di sini, tiada siapa peduli apa yang mereka lakukan, asalkan ia boleh memberi pulangan dan menyenangkan hidup mereka. Penulis tidak bersikap prejudis, tetapi itulah hakikatnya dan ia realiti kemanusiaan yang sebenar.

Indonesia ialah tanah bagi manusia yang ramai. Jurang hidup umpama langit dan bumi. Yang papa terlalu papa, yang kaya terlalu kaya.

Yang kaya tidak pandang ke bawah, yang bawah tetap di bawah.

Down by the river for body and soul

Thursday, January 01, 1970 — Thursday, January 01, 1970

MALAYSIANS will travel far and wide in search of a great meal. PHILIP LIM heads for a riverside town for some freshly cooked seafood.

CONNOISSEURS of seafood will tell you that sometimes the really good restaurants are hidden from sight. It is true as far as the Kuala Sungai Restaurant in Pasir Penambang, Selangor, is concerned.

The place has given new meaning to the phrase down by the river. It sounds like a song but at Pasir Penambang, just across the river from Kuala Selangor town, the busiest activities are concentrated at the river banks.

Pasir Penambang is an unsophisticated fishing village but it is verdant with gifts from Mother Nature. It is actually a Chinese fishing village which has gained fame over the years for its seafood. With each passing year, the prices of meals also climb a little higher.

But KL and PJ residents still firmly believe that it is worth the 50-minute trip to dine at the numerous seafood restaurants standing on stilts along the river.

Impromptu discovery

My favourite restaurant, a recent discovery, is Kuala Sungai restaurant. Its proper name is Kedai Makanan Laut Kuala Sungai. It is not easily spotted along the main road that cuts through Pasir Penambang town because it is partially hidden behind some bushes.

Several months ago, my favourite pit-stop was a restaurant in Kuala Selangor town but on the day of my arrival, it was closed because of some major Chinese festival. I was compelled to look for an alternative and Pasir Penambang at that time seemed to be a logical choice.

Then I noticed Kuala Sungai restaurant from afar. On an impulse, I wandered in and found the restaurant half-filled with local residents. It was a sure sign that this particular place had a good reputation. Otherwise, the folks staying in the area wont be eating there. On my first visit, the service was swift and the dishes were splendidly cooked.

Meals worth waiting for

Now, I am here again but this time, a foreigner is part of the entourage.

I now know that going to this Kuala Sungai restaurant on a public holiday is ill-advised. First, there are no tables available. The ones that are unoccupied have Reserved signs on them.

Second, the cook or cooks in the kitchen are overworked. When we finally find a table, but we wait an hour before we get our dishes.

Fortunately, all five of us have eaten a late breakfast.

Were blessed as the sea breeze is constant. We dont really mind that that there is a delay on the food.

One of our companions buys a giant-sized packet of prawn crackers and it serves as a prelude to the main course.

Meanwhile, the tide is rapidly rising. At 3pm, the water has already covered the muddy banks that was exposed only half an hour ago.

We are not the only people waiting patiently for our food but there are no displays of impatience from the customers. We reckon the people here understand the situation. After all, on the day after public holiday, people are pouring in from PJ, KL, maybe even Singapore.

When our dishes finally show up, they look extra delicious. We have waited for the better part of an hour. We have six dishes on our table - deep-fried fish with tomyam sauce, yam cake with special fillings, a plate of greens, bitter gourd soup and mantis prawns fried with dried chilli.

My overseas guest is quick to add that the meal seems worth the wait. He agrees wholeheartedly with us that this restaurant can easily rival the more popular ones up the river.

The restaurant

Kuala Sungai restaurant is tastefully decked out with hurricane lamps, exotic bottles of alcoholic beverages and coconut shells turned into flower pots.

It has views that will boost an ebbing spirit and gladden your heart. The river that leads to the coast is wide and deep. Fishing boasts sail up and down the river at all hours, either going out to sea or returning to unload their catch.

This restaurant has a pleasant atmosphere enjoyed by all its customers. Sometimes, an egret is sighted, taking a slow turn across the river, looking for food.

The marshy environment exudes a congenial aura that local residents have long taken for granted. We city folk crave such an ambience.

A few short steps from the restaurant, about seven women are sorting out little mountains of prawn on the wooden floor.

Perhaps they are making sure the quality ones are packaged and sold as packets of dried shrimp later on. The inferior ones could be kept aside for makers of prawn crackers.

The scene

The mangrove swamp and the small trawlers provide a backwoods ambience that can only be experienced in these coastal areas of Pasir Penambang.

All along the coast, from Sekinchan to Sabak Bernam and further north, the scenery is about the same with slight variations, depending on the communities who inhabit those areas.

Great seafood, cool sea breezes, friendly people and lovely riverine scenes all add up to one unforgettable experience. Even the bill is very respectable. In other words, very much cheaper than what we will pay for in our own backyard.

Parking is an issue at the Kuala Sungai restaurant because space is limited. You may want to park further along the road.

However, a word of caution, there are some unfriendly and unchained dogs which dont take kindly to strangers. You may have to hasten your walking pace.

Tree Top Walk - Laluan kanopi terpanjang

Thursday, January 01, 1970 — Thursday, January 01, 1970

Tree Top Walk sepanjang 925 meter di kaki Gunung Inas bawa pengunjung teroka keindahan hutan.

PENGALAMAN bersiar-siar sambil menghirup udara segar pada aras paling tinggi iaitu 26.9 meter dari paras hutan atau kira-kira 50 meter dari paras bumi amat menyeronokkan dan pastinya saat itu tidak akan dilupakan.

Itulah yang dirasai tatkala bersantai menikmati keindahan alam semula jadi di laluan kanopi atau The Tree Top Walk di kaki Gunung Inas.

Ia akan menjadi pengalaman penuh bermakna andai pengunjung mengetahui Tree Top Walk di Pusat Rekreasi Sungai Sedim, Kulim, Kedah itu adalah laluan kanopi terpanjang di dunia.

Mula dibina awal 2004 dan siap pada 2005, Tree Top Walk sepanjang 925 meter dibuka kepada pengunjung sejak pertengahan 2006 mempunyai keunikan tersendiri di mana laluan kanopi itu dibina menggunakan struktur besi tahan karat menyerupai jambatan dan mempunyai tiang.

Ia cukup berbeza dengan jambatan gantung atau kanopi di tempat lain yang mana biasa diikat pada pokok. Sebaliknya Tree Top Walk pula lebih teguh menampung beban, sekali gus menjamin keselamatan pengunjung yang bersiar-siar di atasnya sambil menikmati kehijauan hutan khatulistiwa dan penghuninya.

Berjalan melalui titian kanopi besi itu, pengunjung berpeluang melihat pemandangan sekeliling yang cukup mempesona dari atas yang lebih meluas.

Jika bernasib baik, pengunjung berpeluang menyaksikan lebih 260 spesies burung pelbagai saiz termasuklah helang dan enggang.

Selain itu, kawasan Hutan Simpan Gunung Inas kaya dengan pelbagai flora dan fauna itu juga membolehkan pengunjung mengenali dengan lebih dekat kira-kira 100 spesies tumbuh-tumbuhan serta pelbagai haiwan lain.

Biarpun berada di ketinggian 50 meter dari paras bumi di bawahnya sungai mengalir deras dan sedikit gayat, ia pengalaman yang tidak mungkin dilupakan.

Malah, pengalaman baru itu mampu memberi keseronokan buat sesiapa saja yang melang-kah ke jambatan unik itu.

Selain menikmati keindahan alam semula jadi, pengunjung juga disajikan dengan deruan air terjun yang mendamaikan suasana tatkala berjalan di atas Tree Top Walk.

Dengan air sungai yang jernih dan mengalir deras melalui jeram batu itu, pelbagai aktiviti yang boleh dilakukan pengunjung antaranya mandi-manda dan berkelah di tepi sungai bersama keluarga.

Selain itu, bagi penggemar aktiviti lasak terutama golongan muda, ekspedisi meredah hutan atau berakit dan berkayak mengikut arus deras sungai serta white water rafting pasti memberikan kepuasan dan keseronokan yang tidak terkata.

Dari segi kemudahan awam pula, pengunjung tidak perlu gusar kerana pusat rekreasi itu dilengkapi dengan pelbagai kemudahan termasuk tandas awam, surau, dewan serba guna serta gerai makan.

Jika tidak puas hanya berkunjung sehari atau beberapa jam di Pusat Rekreasi Sungai Sedim, kemudahan penginapan turut disediakan di situ.

Info

Tree Top Walk

* Laluan kanopi sepanjang 925 meter dibina menggunakan besi dan tempat paling tinggi ialah pada paras 26.9 meter dari aras hutan.

* Di dunia hanya ada dua Tree Top Walk yang menggunakan teknologi seumpamanya iaitu di Sungai Sedim (bagi kategori terpanjang), manakala satu lagi di Valley of the Giant, Australia Barat sepanjang 500 meter dengan ketinggian 38 meter dari aras bumi.

* Antara aktiviti yang boleh dilakukan di kawasan rekreasi itu termasuk meredah hutan, berjalan malam, survival hutan, berakit arus deras, mendaki gunung, absailing dan perkhemahan bina semangat.

* Aktiviti white water rafting adalah aktiviti paling polular ditawarkan Pusat Rekreasi Sungai Sedim kerana air sungainya yang deras serta jeram batunya yang mencabar.

Bagaimana ke sana?

* Pemanduan hanya mengambil masa setengah jam dari Bandar Kulim, satu setengah jam dari Pulau Pinang melalui Jambatan Pulau Pinang ke Butterworth dan Lebuhraya Kulim-Butterworth (BKE) menuju ke Taman Teknologi Tinggi Kulim (KHTP) dan mengikut laluan Karangan dan Sedim.

Dari Alor Setar pula, perjalanan mengambil hampir tiga jam melalui Lebuhraya Utara-Selatan terus menghala ke Sedim.

Celaru di Palau

Thursday, January 01, 1970 — Thursday, January 01, 1970

Sistem jalan raya direka untuk pemanduan di sebelah kiri, tetapi lebih 90 peratus kereta dipandu di sebelah kanan.

HAMPIR semua rakan yang ditemui tidak tahu mengenai kewujudan negara Palau. Seorang rakan media yang turut diundang syarikat Nestle (M) Sdn Bhd pula menyangka Nestle selaku penganjur tersalah eja perkataan pulau ketika menghantar undangan percutian itu, baru-baru ini.

Ramai juga di kalangan kami menyangka Palau yang mempunyai 20,000 penduduk adalah Pulau Palawan iaitu satu daripada wilayah di Filipina.

Tidak kenal, maka tidak cinta. Justeru, pencarian di Google dan Wikipedia banyak membantu penulis mendapatkan maklumat mengenai negara kecil dengan penduduk berwajah keMelayuan tetapi fasih berbahasa Inggeris lenggok Amerika itu.

Jika tidak kerana undangan Nestle juga, entah bila agaknya penulis akan sampai ke Palau, negara kepulauan di Lautan Pasifik yang terletak 800 kilometer (km) ke timur Filipina dan 3,200 km ke selatan Jepun.

Republik itu antara negara paling muda di dunia selepas ia mencapai kemerdekaan pada 1 Oktober 1994. Sebelum itu sejak 1947, Palau di bawah pentadbiran Pertubuhan Bangsa Bangsa Bersatu (PBB).

Penulis dibawa ke Palau bersama dengan lima pemenang utama peraduan Nestle Drumstick Kembara Di Hujung Pelangi yang ditawarkan hadiah percutian enam hari lima malam di negara itu. Yang pasti, Palau adalah negara cukup asing bagi kebanyakan rakyat negara ini.

Palau dengan keluasan hanya 459 km persegi (lebih kecil dari Perlis) belum tercemar, baik daripada segi alam sekitar mahu pun penduduknya.

Lapangan Terbang Antarabangsa Palau yang terletak di Airai, dekat Pulau Babeldaob, empat km dari bandar terbesarnya, Koror hanya memiliki tiga lorong untuk pemeriksaan imigresen - dua untuk warga asing dan satu untuk rakyat negara itu.

Tidak ada penerbangan terus dari Malaysia dan jika mahu ke Palau, kita perlu mengambil penerbangan dari Manila, Filipina dengan Continental Airlines atau Tokyo-Narita dengan Delta Air Lines.

Daripada segi pembangunan, Palau agak ketinggalan. Tidak ada bangunan pencakar langit (paling tinggi hanya 10 tingkat) atau pusat beli-belah mega, malah jalan rayanya tidak ada lampu isyarat, apatah lagi persimpangan bertingkat.

Jika terlewat ke tempat kerja, orang Palau tidak boleh beri alasan terperangkap dalam kesesakan lalu lintas kerana ia tidak pernah berlaku di negara itu.

Uniknya di Palau ialah sistem jalan rayanya yang boleh dianggap paling pelik di dunia! Sistem jalan raya negara itu direka untuk pemanduan di sebelah kiri (left hand drive) sebagaimana di Amerika Syarikat (AS), tetapi lebih 90 peratus kereta di negara itu yang dibawa masuk dari Jepun adalah pemanduan di sebelah kanan (right hand drive).

Jadi, bayangkan anda memandu di sebelah kanan di atas jalan raya yang menggunakan sistem pemanduan di sebelah kiri? Tidakkah kekok?

Kami dah biasa. Memang nampak kekok, terutama jika hendak memotong dan keluar dari simpang, tetapi itulah yang berlaku di Palau, kata penduduknya, Kent Giramur.

Kent, 50, yang bekerja sebagai pemandu bot pelancong berkata, negara itu banyak mengambil sistem yang diamalkan di AS, termasuk sistem jalan raya serta penggunaan mata wang Amerika (USD).

Namun, dengan purata pendapatan USD500 (RM1,500) sebulan, kami tidak mampu membeli kenderaan yang diimport dari AS. Jadi kereta terpakai dari Jepun dibawa ke sini dan ia lebih murah, menyebabkan berlakunya kecelaruan dalam sistem jalan raya.

Ada yang berpendapat mengapa tidak diubah sistem jalan raya itu kepada pemanduan di sebelah kanan, malangnya orang berkuasa di sini tidak mahu kerana kebanyakan mereka memandu kereta buatan AS selain memberi alasan kos tinggi, katanya.

Namun, dalam keadaan kekok itu, kadar kemalangan jalan raya di Palau sangat rendah.

Yang pasti, sebagai negara dikelilingi laut, pelancongan adalah aktiviti utama di sini yang turut menyediakan kemudahan bertaraf kelas satu.

Laut membiru, pantai memutih, makanan laut dan aktiviti laut seperti snorkeling, selam scuba dan kayak adalah tarikan utama di Palau.

Bagi yang meminati selam scuba, Palau adalah destinasi yang wajib dikunjungi. Ada 75 kawasan selam scuba di keliling pulau berkenaan yang menawarkan panorama syurga lautan yang mempesona.

Antara yang terbaik ialah Ulong Channel, Shark City, Peleliu Express dan Ngerchong Outside. Selain dikelilingi kepelbagaian hidupan lautan, pengunjung boleh mencari pengalaman menyelam bersama ikan jerung di beberapa lokasi tertentu di situ.

Selain itu, penyelam scuba boleh menyelam di sekitar kapal perang Jepun yang tenggelam di perairan Palau ketika Perang Dunia Kedua. Sebanyak 24 kapal perang Jepun ditenggelamkan tentera AS dalam pertempuran hebat di Pulau Peleliu di selatan negara itu pada 1944.

Antara lokasi menarik ialah George Bush Wreck sedalam 12 meter iaitu lokasi kapal perang Jepun sepanjang 45 meter yang ditembak dan ditenggelamkan oleh bekas Presiden AS, George Bush pada 25 Julai 1944 ketika beliau bertugas sebagai juruterbang jet pejuang AS.

Jika tidak memiliki lesen selam scuba, anda masih boleh menghayati keindahan dasar laut Palau dengan melakukan aktiviti snorkeling.

Palau menawarkan banyak lokasi snorkeling yang mengagumkan, malah penulis dibawa ke empat lokasi berkenaan yang disifatkan terbaik.

Dua daripadanya adalah lokasi snorkeling yang tidak ada di mana-mana tempat di seluruh dunia iaitu Milky Way dan Jellyfish Lake.

Milky Way yang terletak 30 minit perjalanan dengan bot dari jeti di Koror ialah sebuah teluk dikelilingi pulau batu kapur. Ia dipanggil Milky Way kerana warna airnya seperti susu dan ia terjadi akibat mendapan lumpur batu kapur di dasarnya.

Paling menarik, sebelum melakukan snorkeling, lumpur itu dilumur pada seluruh tubuh kerana difahamkan ia baik untuk penjagaan kulit.

Selain itu, Jellyfish Lake yang terletak di Rock Islands, 45 minit perjalanan bot dari Koror, menawarkan satu-satunya aktiviti di dunia iaitu snorkeling bersama obor-obor.

Jellyfish Lake ialah tasik air masin yang terletak di Pulau Eil Malk, iaitu sebahagian daripada gugusan pulau di Rock Islands.

Bayangkan anda menyelam bersama ribuan obor-obor dari spesies Golden Jellyfish yang bersaiz sebesar syiling lima sen hinggalah sebesar tapak tangan! Anda juga tidak perlu bimbang kerana ia spesies yang tidak berbahaya kepada manusia.

Selain itu, penulis dibawa ke Clam City yang di dasarnya wujud habitat kepah gergasi bersaiz hampir sebesar bantal dan Pulau Nguzz yang menawarkan pemandangan mengasyikkan ribuan hidupan marin.

Bukan setakat laut yang ditawarkan di Palau, malah ia juga kaya dengan flora dan fauna yang belum tercemar.

Palau Eco Theme Park yang terletak di Hutan Simpan Taki, Ngardmau, dekat Pulau Babeldaub menawarkan keindahan alam semula jadi, di samping menyediakan aktiviti lasak seperti zipline (seperti flying fox) dan merentas hutan.

Ada tiga fasa zipline di situ dengan jarak di antara 250 meter (m) hingga 350m dan ketinggian hampir 100m. Jarak keseluruhan yang hampir mencecah satu km menjadikan zipline di Palau yang terpanjang di dunia.

Namun, jika gerun dengan zipline, pengunjung boleh menaiki monorail dengan trek sepanjang 1.3km sambil menikmati keindahan alam semula jadi di situ atau berjalan kaki merentas hutan.

Tarikan utama di situ ialah air terjun setinggi 30 meter sambil mandi manda di sungai di bawahnya.

Yang pasti, Palau menjanjikan pelbagai keseronokan jika anda penggemar aktiviti laut dan pencinta alam semula jadi.

Mahu membeli-belah? Maaf, Palau bukan tempatnya kerana tidak ada apa yang menarik dijual di sini selain barangannya mahal kerana semua transaksi hanya menggunakan USD.